709 
S867C 


STODDARD 
CHINA 


THE  TRAVEL  SERIES  — No.  8 
Published  Weekly  Price,  50  Cents      Annual  Subscription,  $25.00  December  13,  1897 

ENTERED  AT  THE  CHICAGO   POST-OKFICR   AS   SFXOND-CLASS    MATTER 


CHINA 


BY 


JOHN  L.  STODDARD 


Illustrated  and  Embellished  with  One  Hundred 

and  Twenty-two  Reproductions  of 

Photographs 


CHICAGO 
BELFORD,  MIDDLEBROOK  &  COMPANY 

MDCCCXCVII 


ONIVERSITY  OF  CALliOUWA 
LOS  ANGELES 


http  ://wTO,4(ch  i  ve^o  rg/d 


stodia 


CHINA 


i 


W 


JOHN  lAsTODDARD 


illustratf:d  and  embellished  with  one  hundred 

and  twenty-two  reproductions  of 

photographs 


CHICAGO 

BELFORD,  MIDDLEBROOK   &   COMPANY 

MDCCCXCVII 


Copyright,  1897 
By  John  L.  Stoddard 


Entered  at  Stationers'  Hall,  Lonuon 
all  rights  reserved 


7Cfl 


CHINA  defies  the  world  to  equal  her  in  three  important 
respects:  age,  population,  and  industries.  As  for 
the  first,  she  undoubtedly  has  the  oldest  Government 
on  earth.  Even  the  Papacy  is  young  compared  with  it ;  and  as 
for  our  republic,  it  is  a  thing  of  yesterday.  A  Chinaman 
once  said  to  an  American:  "Wait  till  your  Government  has 
been  tried  before  you  boast  of  it.  What  is  a  hundred  years? 
Ours  has  stood  the  test  of  forty  centuries.  When  you  did  not 
exist,  we  were.  When  you  shall  have 
passed  away,  we  still  shall  be." 

In  point  of  numbers,  too,  the  Chinese 
empire  leads  the  world.  Its  area  is  nearly 
twice  as  large  as  that  of  the  United  States, 
and  it  has  six  times  as  many  people.  The 
governor  of  one  Chinese  province  rules 
over  sixty  million  souls.  Have  we  a  defi- 
nite conception  of  what  four  hundred 
million  human  beings  are?  Arrange  the 
inhabitants  of  our  globe  in  one  long  line, 
and  every  fourth  man  will  be  a  Chinaman. 

As  for  her  industries,  Musa,  the  Saracen  conqueror  of 
Spain,  once  aptly  said  that  Wisdom,  when  she  came  from 
heaven  to  earth,  was  lodged  in  the  head  of  the  Greeks,  the 
tongue  of  the  Arabs,  and  the  hands  of  the  Chinese.      China 


EMPEROR  OF   CHINA. 


2218738 


4  CHINA 

was  once  what  the  United  States  is  now— the  birthplace  of 
inventions.  Paper  was  manufactured  there  in  the  third  cen- 
tury of  our  era.  Tea  was  produced  a  century  later.  If 
Europe    had    enjoyed    communication   with  China,  it    would 


A   CHINKSK  TKMli.K. 


have  learned  the  art  of  printing  many  centuries  before  it  did; 
and  who  can  say  what  might  have  been  the  result?  A  thou- 
sand years  ago  the  Chinese  made  designs  on  wood.  Print- 
ing from  stone  was  a  still  earlier  industry  among  them.  In 
China,  also,  gunpowder  was  first  invented — a  thought  by 
which,  alas!  so  many  thoughts  have  been  destroyed.  This 
same  astonishing  race  produced  the  mariner's  compass  in  the 
fourth  century,  porcelain  in  the  third,  chess  and  playing- 
cards  in  the  twelfth,  and  silk  embroideries  in  almost  prehis- 
toric  times.      An   empire,  therefore,    of  such  vast  antiquity, 


CHINA 


5 


overwhelming  population,  and  great  achievements  must  be, 
despite  its  faults,  a  country  of  absorbing  interest. 

The  most  delightful  portion  of  the  voyage  from  Japan  to 
China  lies  in  the  Japanese  Mediterranean,  known  as  the 
Inland  Sea.  It  is  a  miniature  ocean,  practically  land-locked 
for  three  hundred  miles,  with  both  shores  constantly  in  sight, 
yet  strewn  with  islands  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  from  small  and 
uninhabited  rocks  to  wave-encircled  hills,  terraced  and  culti- 
vated to  their  very  summits.  It  seems  as  if  volcanic  action 
here  had  caused  the  land  to  sink,  until  the  ocean  rushed  in 
and  submerged  it,  leaving  only  the  highest  peaks  above  the 
waves. 

We  lingered  here  all  day  upon  the  steamer's  deck,  like 
passengers  on  the  Rhine,  fearing  to  lose  a  single  feature  of 
the  varied  panorama  gliding  by  on  either  side.  By  night  it  was 
more  glorious  even  than  by  day;   for  then,  from  every  danger- 


THE  JAPANESE   MEDITERRANEAN. 


ous  cliff  flashed  forth  a  beacon  light;  the  villages  along  the 
shore  displayed  a  line  of  glittering  points,  like  constellations 
rising  from  the  sea;  and,  best  of  all,  at  a  later  hour,  moon- 
light  lent  enchantment  to  the  scene,  drawing  a  crystal  edge 


CHINA 


WAVE-ENCIKCLl  U    HILl  : 


along  each   mountain   crest,  and   making  every  island  seem  a 
jewel  on  a  silver  thread. 

When  we  emerged  from  these  inland  waters,  we  saw  be- 
tween us  and  the  setting  sun  the  stretch  of  ocean  called  the 
China  Sea.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  this  is  the  favorite 
pathway  of  typhoons;  and  the  Formosa  Channel,  in  particu- 
lar, has  been  a  graveyard  for  countless  ves- 
sels.   Indeed,  only  three  weeks  before,  a  sister 


HUGE   SAILS   LIKE  THE   WINGS  OF   BATS 


CHINA  7 

ship  of  ours — the  "Bokhara," — had  gone  down  here  in  a  ter- 
rific cyclone.  Yet  when  we  sailed  its  waters  nothing  could 
have  been  more  beautiful.  Day  after  day  this  sea  of  evil  omen 
rested  motionless,  like  a  sleek  tigress  gorged  with  food  and 
basking  in  the  sun. 

After  a  three-days'  voyage  from  the  Japanese  coast,  we 
began  to  meet,  in  constantly  increasing  numbers,  large, 
pointed  boats,  propelled  by  huge  sails  ribbed  with  cross-bars, 
like  the  wings  of  bats.      Upon  the  bow  of  each  was  painted  an 


^^Hu*' 

^*fc      — ?  ->t               1  1 

■ -3^ 

^K 

-■r_^g^^lHj 

ff^S^^^^^T'. '-.  \ 

i 

Ull^  >^ 

THE    HARBOR   OF   HONG-KONG. 


enormous  eye;  for  of  their  sailing  craft  the  mariners  of  China, 
in  elementary  English,  say:  "If  boat  no  have  eye,  how  can 
boat  see  go?"  We  were  assured  that  these  were  Chinese  sail- 
ing craft,  and  that  our  destination  was  not  far  away;  but  it 
was  difficult  to  realize  this,  and  I  remember  looking  off  beyond 
those  ships  and  trying  to  convince  myself  that  we  were  actu- 
ally on  the  opposite  side  of  the  globe  from  home  and  friends, 
and  in  a  few  brief  hours  were  to  land  in  that  vast  Eastern 
empire  so  full  of  mystery  in  its  exclusiveness,  antiquity,  and 
changeless  calm. 


CHINA 


That  night  the  agitation  that  precedes  one's  first  arrival 
in  a  foreign  land  made  sleep  almost  impossible.  It  seemed  to 
me  that  I  had  not  closed  my  eyes  when  suddenly  the  steamer 
stopped.  To  my  astonishment,  the  morning  light  had  already 
found  its  way  into  my  state-room.  We  had  arrived!  Hurry- 
ing to  the  deck,  therefore,  I  looked  upon  the  glorious  harbor  of 
Hong-Kong.    A  hundred  ships  and  steamers  lay  at  anchor  here, 

displaying  flags  of  every 
country  on  the  globe.  Al- 
though the  day  had  hardly 
dawned,   these    waters 


THE   CITY   OF   VICTORIA. 


showed  great  animation.  Steam-launches,  covered  with  white 
awnings,  were  darting  to  and  fro  like  flying-fish.  Innumerable 
smaller  boats,  called  sampans,  propelled  by  Chinese  men  and 
women,  surrounded  each  incoming  steamer,  like  porpoises 
around  a  whale.  On  one  side  rose  some  barren-looking  moun- 
tains, which  were  a  part  of  the  mainland  of  China;  but  for 
the  moment  they  presented  little  to  attract  us.  It  was  the 
other  shore  of  this  magnificent  harbor  that  awoke  our  interest ; 
for  there  we  saw  an  island  twenty-seven  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence,   covered    with    mountains    rising  boldly  from  the  sea. 


CHINA 


II 


Along  the  base  of  one  of  these  elevations,  and  built  in  terraces 
far  up  on  its  precipitous  slopes,  was  a  handsome  city. 

"What  is  this?"  we  inquired  eagerly. 

"The  town  itself,"  was  the  reply,  "is  called  Victoria,  but 
this  imposing  island  to  whose  flank  it  clings,  is,  as  you  may 
suppose,  Hong-Kong." 

The  first  impression  made  upon  me  here  was  that  of  mild 
astonishment  at  the  architecture.  Almost  without  exception, 
the  prominent  buildings  of  Victoria  have  on  every  story  deep 
porticoes  divided  by  columns  into  large,  square  spaces,  which 


w^^H^^IH'     ^^^V  "  ^t^     »^qBl 

LM^^^afl'                    nil 

^^M^^-JjpSri.-'^^^^'^^^S 

A    STREET   IN    HONG-KONG. 


from  a  distance  look  like  letter-boxes  in  a  post-office.  We 
soon  discovered  that  such  deep,  shadowy  verandas  are  essen- 
tial here,  for  as  late  as  November  it  was  imprudent  not  to  carry 
a  white  umbrella,  and  even  before  our  boat  had  brought  us 
from  the  steamer  to  the  pier,  we  perceived  that  the  solar  rays 
were  not  to  be  trifled  with. 

As  soon  as  possible  after  landing,  we  started  to  explore 
this  British  settlement.  I  was  delighted  with  its  streets  and 
buildings.  The  former  are  broad,  smooth  and  clean;  the  lat- 
ter, three  or  four  stories  high,  are  built  of  granite,  and  even 
on   a  curve   have  sidewalks  shielded   from  the  sun  or  rain  by 


12 


CHINA 


the  projection  of  the  roof  above.  Truly,  the  touch  of  Eng- 
land has  wrought  astounding  changes  in  the  fifty-five  years 
that  she  has  held  this  island  as  her  own.  Before  she  came 
it  was  the  resort  of  poverty-stricken   fishermen  and  pirates. 


DEEP   PORTICOES   AND   COLONNAUi: 


But  now  the  city  of  Victoria  alone  contains  two  hundred 
thousand  souls,  while  the  grand  aqueducts  and  roads  which 
cross  the  mountains  of  Hong-Kong  are  worthy  to  be  com- 
pared with  some  of  the  monumental  works  of  ancient  Rome. 
Along  the  principal  thoroughfare  in  Victoria,  the  banks, 
shops,  hotels,  and  club-houses,  which  succeed  each  other  rap- 
idly, are  built  of  the  fine  gray  granite  of  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains, and  show  handsome  architectural  designs.  Everything 
looks  as  trim  and  spotless  as  the  appointments  of  a  man-of- 
war.  Even  the  district  of  the  town  inhabited  by  Chinamen 
is  kept  by  constant  watchfulness  immeasurably  cleaner  than 
a  Chinese  city;  although  if  one  desires  to  see  the  world-wide 
difference  that  exists  between  the  British  and  Mongolian  races. 


CHINA  13 

he  merely  needs  to  take  a  short  walk  throu^^h  the  Chinese 
quarter  of  Victoria.  But  such  comparisons  may  well  be  de- 
ferred until  one  reaches  Canton.  There  one  beholds  the  gen- 
uine native  article. 

The  police  who  guard  the  lives  and  property  of  the  resi- 
dents of  Hong-Kong,  are  for  the  most  part  picked  men  of 
English  birth,  and  are  considered  as  trustworthy  as  regular 
troops.  But  several  hundred  of  these  guardians  of  the  peace 
are  Sikhs — a  race  imported  hither  from  India — renowned  for 
bravery,  loyal  to  the  British  government,  and  having  no  sym- 
pathy with  the  Chinese.  These  Sikhs  have  handsome  faces, 
brilliant  eyes,  and  dark  complexions,  the  effect  of  Avhich  is 

wonderfully  en-  hanced  by  their 

immense  red      ^,„^^  ~~~"~~~->^      turbans,  con- 


THE    BANK,    HONG-KONG. 


spicuous  two  or  three  blocks  away,  not  only  by  their  startling 
color,  but  because  their  wearers  exceed  in  stature  all  other 
races  in  Hong-Kong. 

Strolling  one  morning  through  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  I 
came  upon  some  troops  engaged  in  military  manoeuvres,   and 


14 


CHINA 


POLICEMEN. 


attired  in  white  from  head  to  foot,  to  shield  them  from  the 
sun.  What  traveler  in  the  East  can  forget  the  ever-present 
soldiers  of   Great   Britain,    of    whom  there   are   nearly  three 

thousand  in 
the  garrison  of 
Hong-Kong?  I 
know  it  is  fre- 
quently the 
fashion  to  sneer 
at  them  and  to 
question  their 
efficiency  in 
case  of  war.  I 
know,  too,  that 

in  certain  ways  the  vast  extent  of  England's  empire  constitutes 
her  weakness.  But  I  must  say  that  in  a  tour  around  our  planet 
I  was  impressed  as  never  before  with  what  the  British  had  ac- 
complished in  the  way  of  conquest,  and  with  the  number  of 
strategic  points  they  hold  in  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  We 
had  but  recently  left  the  western  terminus  of  England's  North 
American  pos- 
sessions, yet  in 
a  few  days  we 
discerned  the 
flag  of  England 
flying  at  Hong- 
Kong.  Next 
we  beheld  the 
Union  Jack  at 
Singapore,  then 
at  Penang,  then  soldiers  drilling. 

at  Ceylon,  and  after  that  throughout  the  length  and  breadth 
of  the  vast  empire  of  India,  as  well  as  the  enormous  area 
of  Burma.      Leaving  Rangoon,  if  we  sail  southward,  we  are 


i^iww 

m 

1 

'-  -^'^Hlll 

||D||gg 

mm 

^ 

3 

CHINA 


17 


reminded  that  the  southernmost  portion  of  Africa  is  entirely 
in  English  hands,  as  well  as  the  huge  continent  of  Australia. 
Returning  northward,  we  find  the  same  great  colonizing  power 

stationed  at  the  mouth   of   the 

Red  Sea,  in  ^^..-^--^''"^  ^"~~""---:^  the  British 


citadel   of 
a    trifling    journey, 
Egypt,  via  the  Suez 
tually  controlled  to- 


A    BIT  OF   CHINATOWN    IN    HONG-KONG. 


Aden.  Again 
and  we  reach 
Canal,  both  vir- 
day    by    Eng- 


land. Then,  like  the  three  stars  in  Orion's  belt,  across  the 
Mediterranean  lie  Cyprus,  Malta,  and  Gibraltar;  in  fact,  we 
find  one  mighty  girdle  of  imposing  strongholds  all  the  way, 
bristling  with  cannon,   guarded  by  leviathans  in   armor,  and 


i8  CHINA 

garrisoned   by  thousands  of  such  soldiers  as  were  drilling  at 
Hong-Kong. 

One  of  the  first  desires  of  the  visitor  to  Hong-Kong  is  to 
explore  the  mountain  which  towers  above  the  city  of  Victoria 
to  a  height  of  nearly  two  thousand  feet.  To  do  this  with  the 
least  exertion,  each  of  our  party  took  a  canvas-covered  bam- 
boo chair,  supported  by  long  poles,  which  Chinese  coolies 
carry  on  their  shoulders.  On  level  ground,  two  of  these 
bearers  were  enough,    but   on   the  mountain    roads  three  or 


CHAIR-COOLIES    AT   HONG-KONG. 


four  men  were  usually  needed.  To  my  surprise,  I  found  the 
motion  of  these  chairs  agreeable.  The  poles  possess  such 
elasticity  that,  leaning  back,  I  was  rocked  lightly  up  and 
down  without  the  least  unpleasant  jar.  In  fact,  at  times  the 
rhythm  of  that  oscillation  gave  me  a  sense  of  drowsiness  diffi- 
cult to  resist. 

But,  alas  I  we  had  not  here  for  carriers  the  cleanly  natives 
of  Japan.  It  may  be,  as  some  residents  of  Hong-Kong 
assert,  that  Chinamen  are  more  trustworthy  and  honest  than 
the  Japanese,  but  certainly  in  point  of  personal  attractiveness 
the  contrast  between  these  races  is  remarkable.     The  bodies 


CHINA 


19 


of  the  lower  classes  of  Chinese  reveal  no  evidence  of  that  care 
so  characteristic  of  the  natives  of  Japan.  Their  teeth  are 
often  yellow  tusks;  their  nails  resemble  eagle's  claws;  and 
their  unbecoming  clothes  seem  glazed  by  perspiration.  Nor 
is  there  usually  anything  in  their  manner  to  redeem  all  this. 
Where  the  light-hearted  Japs  enjoy  their  work,  and  laugh  and 
talk,  the   Chinese   coolies   labor   painfully,    and    rarely   smile. 


THE    MOUNTAIN    ABOVE    VICTORIA. 


regarding  you  meantime  with  a  supercilious  air,  as  if  despising 
you  for  being  what  they  call  "a  foreign  devil," 

Nevertheless,  despite  the  repulsive  appearance  of  our 
bearers,  we  thoroughly  enjoyed  our  excursion  up  the  moun- 
tain. At  every  step  our  admiration  was  increased  for  the 
magnificent  roads  which  wind  about  the  cliffs  in  massive  ter- 
races, arched  over  by  majestic  trees,  bordered  by  parapets  of 
stone,  lighted  with  gas,  and  lined  with  broad,  deep  aqueducts, 
through  which  at  times  the  copious  rainfall  rushes  like  a 
mountain  stream.      It  will  be  seen  that  such  a  comparison  is 


20 


CHINA 


not  an  exaggeration,  when  I  add  that  not  many  years  ago, 
thirty-two  inches  of  rain  fell  here  in  thirty  hours.  This 
mountain  is  the  favorite  abode  of  wealthy  foreigners,  and 
hence  these  curving  avenues  present  on  either  side,  almost  to 


iHE   CABLE-ROAD   TO   VICTORIA    PEAK. 


the  summit,  a  series  of  attractive  villas  commanding  lovely 
views.  On  account  of  their  situation,  the  gardens  of  these  hill- 
side homes  are  necessarily  small;  but  in  the  midst  of  them, 
about  five  hundred  feet  above  the  town,  a  charming  botanical 
park  has  been  laid  out. 

Forgetful  of  our  coolies  at  the  gate,  we  lingered  in  this 
garden  for  an  hour  or  two,  delighted  with  its  fine  display  of 
semitropical  foliage.  It  is  marvelous  what  skillful  gardeners 
have  accomplished  here,  in  transforming  what  was  fifty  years 
ago  a  barren  rock  into  an  open-air  conservatory.  Palms, 
banyans,  india-rubber  trees,  mimosas  with  their  tufts  of  gold, 
camellias  with  their  snowy  blossoms — all  these  are  here,  with 


CHINA 


21 


roses,  mignonette,  and  jessamine,  surrounded  with  innumer- 
able ferns.  Occasionally  we  encountered  in  this  fragrant  area 
a  Chinese  gentleman,  indulging  leisurely  his  love  of  flowers; 
for  this  delightful  park  is  open  to  all  without  regard  to  race 
or  creed,  although  the  population  of  the  island  is  extremely 
cosmopolitan.  Englishmen,  Americans,  Germans,  French- 
men, Spaniards,  Portuguese,  Italians,  Parsees,  Mohamme- 
dans, Jews,  Hindus,  and  fully  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
Chinamen,  are  residents  of  the  city  of  Victoria  alone. 

In  this  retired  park  one  does  not  realize  that  Hong-Kong 
is  such  a  rendezvous  for  different  nationalities;  but  frequently, 
while  we  were  walking  here,  the  sharp  report  of  a  cannon 
forced  a  discordant  echo  from  the  neighboring  hills  and  told 
us  that  some  foreign  man-of-war  had  just  appeared  within  the 
bay  ;  for  here 
some  ship  or 
steamer  is  con- 
tinually arriv- 
ing or  depart- 
ing, and  many 
times  a  day 
there  comes  a 
deafening  inter- 
change of  sa- 
lutes that  sends 
a  thrill  through 
every  window- 
pane  upon  the 
mountain. 

One  can  well 
understand, 

therefore,  that  with  so  mixed  a  population  and  in  such  close 
proximity  to  China,  the  oflficers  sent  out  here  by  the  British 
government  must  be  men  of  courage,  the  garrison  of  the  island 


iNG-KONG. 


22 


CHINA 


strong,  and  its  administration  prompt  and  resolute.  A  single 
incident  revealed  to  me  the  crimes  which  woidd  undoubtedly 
creep  forth,  like  vipers  from  a  loathsome  cave,  were  the\' 
not  kept  in  check  by  \'igorous  justice  and  incessant  vigilance. 
In  one  of  the  residences  on  the  height  above  Victoria,  I 
met  one  day  at  dinner  the  captain  of  a  steamer  anchored  in 
the  bay.      He  asked   me  to  come  out  some  evening  and  pay  a 


visit  to  his  ship.  The  following  night,  soon  after  dark,  I 
walked  down  to  the  pier,  intending  to  embark  on  one  of  the 
many  boats  along  the  shore.  I  was  about  to  enter  one,  when 
a  policeman  rapidly  approached.  "Give  me  your  name  and 
number,"  he  said  roughly  to  the  Chinese  boatman.  Then 
turning  to  me,  he  politely  asked  my  name,  address,  and  des- 
tination, and  when  I  intended  to  return.  "I  am  obliged  to 
do  this,"  he  explained,  "for  your  protection.  There  is  a 
population  of  twenty  thousand  Chinese  living  in  this  harbor 


A  HONG-KONG  STREET- IN  THE  CHINESE  QUARTER. 


CHINA 


25 


IN  THE  BUSINESS  SECTION,    HONG-KONG. 


upon  boats  alone,  besides  the  usual  criminals  who  drift  to 
such  a  place.  Before  we  adopted  this  precaution,  a  foreigner 
would  sometimes  embark  on  one  of  these  craft  and  never  be 
seen  again.  In  such  a  case  search  was  useless.  He  had  dis- 
appeared as  quietly  and  thoroughly  as  a  piece  of  silver 
dropped  into  the  bay." 

When  I  stood  on  the  apex  of  Victoria  Peak,  I  thought  that 
I   had   never  seen  a    finer    pros- 

pect.  Nearly         __-- — ■-■  '        ■ — >^^         two   thou- 


VIEW    FKOM 

VICTORIA    PEAK. 


26 


CHINA 


sand  feet  below  us  lay  the  renowned  metropolis  of  the  East 
which  bears  the  name  of  England's  queen.  From  this  great 
elevation,  its  miles  of  granite  blocks  resembled  a  stupendous 
landslide,  which,  sweeping  downward  from  this  rocky  height, 
had  forced  its  cracked  and  creviced  mass  far  out  into  the  ba\-. 
Between  this  and  the  mainland  opposite,  curved  a  portion  of 
that  ocean-girdle  which  surrounds  the  island,  and  on  its  sur- 
face countless  boats  and  steamers  seemed,  in  the  long  perspec- 
tive, like  ornaments  of  bead-work  on  a  lady's  belt. 

Around  the  summit  of  the  mountain  are  several  handsome 
villas  and  hotels,  whither  the  residents  of  Victoria  come  in 
summer  to  escape  the  heat;  but,  as  a  rule,  in  riding  over  the 
island   I   saw  outside   of   the   city  very  few  houses,  and   little 

agriculture.  The  soil  of 
Hong-Kong  is  not  fer- 
tile; but  politically  and 
commercially  the  island 
is  immensely  valuable,  for 
England  has  now  made 
of  it  the  great  emporium 
of  the  Far  East,  and,  gar- 
risoned by  British  troops, 
it  guards  completely  the 
approaches  to  that  rive: , 
upon  which,  ninety-two 
miles  inland  from  the 
ocean,  lies  the  city  of 
Canton. 

One  of  the  pleasantest 
excursions  in  Hong-Kong 
may  be  made  in  sedan-chairs,  some  six  miles  over  the  hills,  to 
the  great  reservoir  which  supplies  the  city  with  water.  The 
aqueduct  which  comes  from  it  is  solidly  constructed,  and  on  its 
summit   is   a  granite   path   protected   by   iron  railings.      This 


THE    RACE-TRACK,    HONG-KONG. 


CHINA 


-7 


winds  along  the  cliffs  for  miles,  and  is  in  many  places  cut 
through  solid  rock.  It  is  an  illustration  of  the  handsome,  yet 
substantial  character  of  everything  accomplished  here.  One 
feels  that  such  works  are  not  only  artistic,  but  enduring.      Here 


THE   AQIEDVCT,  HONG-KONG. 


are  no  wooden  trestles, 
no  hastily  constructed 
bridges  and  no  half-made 
roads  to  be  destroyed  by 
mountain  torrents,  but  everywhere  the  best  of  masonry,  cyclo- 
pean  in  massiveness  and  perfect  in  detail. 

On  reaching  the  terminus  of  this  granite  pathway  we  saw 
before  us  the  principal  reservoir  of  Hong-Kong.  Though 
largely  artificial,  it  looks  precisely  like  a  natural  lake  hidden 
away  among  the  mountains.  Before  it  was  constructed  the 
island's  water-supply  was  lamentably  insufficient,  and  the  no- 
torious "Hong-Kong  fever"  gave  the  place  an  evil  name. 
But  now.  in  spite  of  its  large  native  population,  Victoria  has 
as  low  a  death-rate  as  most  European  cities.  The  foreign 
residents  are  very  proud  of  these  magnificent  water- works; 
yet,  after  ten  days'  sojourn  here,  when  I  took  leave  of  sev- 
eral gentlemen   by  whom   I   had   been  entertained  in  private 


28 


CHINA 


houses  and  at  clubs,  candor  compelled  me  to  confess  that,  so 
far  as  I  had  been  able  to  observe,  the  foreign  population 
makes  very  little  use  of  this  water  for  drinking  purposes. 

On  starting  to 
descend  the 
niountain,  we 
found  a  shorter 
route  than  the 
circuitous  path 
by  which  we  had 
come  —  an  ad- 
mirably man- 
aged cable-road. 
In  viewing  this, 
the  question  nat- 
urally arises  how  the  Chinese  can  look  on  such  conveniences 
as  England  has  here  introduced,  and  still  remain  content  to 
have  in  their  enormous  empire  scarcely  a  decent  road,  and 
only  a  few  miles  of  railway,  built  to  transport  coal.      Canals 


A   MOUNTAIN    ROAD,    HONG-KONG. 


AN    EASY    DESCENT. 


CHINA 


29 


^^^Bi^jfc^^.. .      * . i".  ^sml 

■tH  .*v": 

ttjjf 

1 

A    CHINESE    ROAD. 


and  rivers  are 
still  the  usual 
arteries  of  travel 
through  the 
most  of  China. 
In  the  northern 
provinces,  where 
carts  are  used, 
the  roads  are 
often  worn  be- 
low the  surface 
of  the  adjacent 
land,  and  hence 
become,  in  the 
rainy  season, 
mere  water-course.s.  Travelers  are  occasionally  obliged  to 
swim  across  them ;  and  cases  have  been  known  of  people 
drowning  in  a  Chinese  roadway.  Moreover,  the  characteristic 
carts  of  China  are  of  the  most  primitive  description,  having 
no  seats  except 
the  floor,  and  no 
springs  save  the 
involuntary  ones 
contributed  by 
their  luckless 
passengers.  Yet. 
in  many  dis- 
tricts, even  such 
vehicles  can  find 
no  path,  and 
people  travel 
about  in  wheel- 
barrows pro- 
pelled  by  coolies 


A    CHINESE   VEHICLE. 


30  CHINA 

who  are  sometimes  aided  by  a  sail.  The  Bishop  of  North 
China,  for  example,  makes  many  of  his  parochial  visits  in 
a  wheelbarrow. 

There  is  now  in  China  a  small  progressive  party  which 
favors  building  railroads,  as  the  Japanese  have  done,  but  the 
immense  majority  are  against  it.  Some  years  ago  a  foreign 
company  built  a  railroad  near  Shanghai,  but  the  Chinese 
speedily  bought  it  up  at  a  great  cost,  transported  the  rails  and 


CHINESE   GRAVES. 


locomotives  to  the  sea,  and  left  them  to  rust  upon  the  beach. 
This  opposition  to  railways  is  principally  due  to  the  belief 
that  the  use  of  them  would  deprive  millions  of. people  of  their 
means  of  gaining  a  livelihood,  and  that  they  would,  more- 
over, disturb  the  graveyards  of  the  country.  This  latter  objec- 
tion seems  at  first  incredible ;  but  it  must  be  remembered 
that  Chinese  cemeteries  are  strewn  broadcast  over  the  land, 

"Thick  as  autumnal  leaves  that  strow  the  brooks 
In  Vallombrosa." 

One  sees  them  everywhere,  usurping  valuable  tracts  of  terri- 
tory needed  for  the  living.      Outside  the  city  of  Canton,  for 


CHINA 


33 


example,  there 
is  a  graveyard 
thirty  miles  in 
length,  in  which 
are  buried  fully 
one  hundred 
generations. 
Yet  the  Chinese 
insist  that  not 
one  grave  shall 
be  disturbed,  lest 
multitudes  of 
avenging  ghosts 
should  be  let  loose  upon  them  for  such  sacrilege.  In  fact, 
the  permanence  and  inviolability  of  graves  lie  at  the  very 
foundation  of  Chinese  life  and  customs,  which  is  ancestor- 
worship.  From  childhood  to  old  age  the  principal  duty 
of  all   Chinamen  is  to  propitiate  the  spirits  of    their  ances- 


AN   ELABORATE    TOMB. 


34 


CHINA 


A    FELLOW    I'ASSENGEK. 


tors,  and  to 
make  offerings 
to  them  regu- 
larly at  their 
tombs.  This 
custom  cripples 
the  colossal  em- 
pire of  China  as 
paralysis  would 
a  giant,  and  fear 
of  doing  violence  to  their  dead  holds  China's  millions  in 
an  iron  grasp. 

The  discussion  of  this  theme,  as  we  were  descending  the 
mountain,  suggested  to  us  the  idea  of  visiting  the  foreign 
cemetery  in  Hong-Kong.  In  this,  as  in  the  public  garden, 
charming  results  have  been  obtained  by  care  and  irrigation. 
We  were  accompanied  by  a  gentleman  who  had  resided  on 
the  island  nearly  thirty  years.  "In  spite  of  the  beauty  of 
this  place,"  he  said,  "I  dread  to  think  that  I  shall  probably 
be  buried  here — unable  to  escape  from  China  even  after  death. 
For  notwithstanding  many  pleasant  friends,  my  life,  like  that 
of  many  here,  has  been  at  best  a  dreary  banishment  from  all 
that  makes  your  Occidental  life  so  stimulating  to  the  intellect 


ON  THE   CANTON   RIVER. 


CHINA  35 

and  so  rich  in  pleasures.  The  world  at  home,"  he  added, 
"sometimes  blames  us  for  faults,  the  cause  of  which  is  often 
only  an  intense  desire  to  counteract  the  loneliness  of  our  ex- 
istence ;  and  foreigners  in  the  East  deserve  some  sympathy,  if 
only  from  the  fact  that  in  these  cemeteries,  kept  with  so 
much  care,  the  graves  of  those  we  love  increase  so  rapidly." 
After  a  few  days  at  Hong-Kong  we  embarked  on  one  of 
the  American  steamers  which  ply  between  Victoria  and  Can- 
ton. These  boats  are  modest  imitations  of  the  Fall  River 
steamers  on  Long  Island  Sound.      We  found  the  one  that  we 


took  clean  and  comfortable  and  its  American  captain  cordial 
and  communicative.  During  the  trip  he  related  to  us  many 
incidents  of  his  life  in  China.  This  he  could  easily  do,  for 
there  were  only  two  other  foreign  passengers  on  board,  and 
hence,  so  long  as  we  remained  upon  the  promenade  deck,  the 
spacious  vessel  seemed  to  be  our  private  yacht. 

On  passing,  however,  to  the  deck  below,  we  found  a 
number  of  Chinamen,  likewise  going  to  Canton.  Most  of 
them  were  smoking,  lying  on  their  backs,  their  heads  sup- 
ported by  a  bale  of  cloth.  At  first  we  thought  these  consti- 
tuted all  the  passengers;  but  presently  we  learned,  to  our 
astonishment,   that   farther  down,    packed    in  the   hold   like 


z^ 


CHINA 


sardines  in  a  box,  and  barricaded  from  us  by  an  iron  gra- 
ting, were  more  than  a  thousand  Chinese  cooHes.  A  sentry, 
heavily  armed,  stood  by  the  padlocked  grating  constantly; 
while  in  the  wheel-house  and  saloon  were  stands  of  loaded 


EXECUTION    OF   THE    I'IKATES. 


muskets  ready  for  emergencies.  The  danger  is  that  Chinese 
pirates  will  come  on  board  in  the  disguise  of  coolies,  and  at  a 
favorable  moment  take  possession  of  the  ship.  One  naturally 
thinks  this  an  impossible  occurrence;  but  only  a  few  years 
ago  this  actually  took  place  on  one  of  these  boats.  A  well- 
armed  band  of  desperadoes  swarmed  up  from  the  hold,  shot 
down  the  captain  in  cold  blood,  and  also  some  of  the  passen- 
gers who  tried  to  interfere.  Then,  taking  command  of  the 
ship,  they  forced  the  engineer  and  crew  to  do  their  bidding, 
steered  to  a  lonely  point  where  their  confederates  awaited 


CHINA  17 

them,  unloaded  the  valuable  cargo  into  their  boats,  disabled  the 
engine  so  that  the  survivors  could  not  give  the  alarm,  and 
finally  made  their  escape.  Such  are  the  indisputable  facts. 
Yet,  sailing  up  this  peaceful  river,  reclining  in  our  easy  chairs, 
and  soothed  by  the  soft,  balmy  air,  the  tragedy  seemed  so 
incredible  that  we  were  obliged  to  put  our  hands  upon  the 
guns,  in  order  to  realize  that  precautions  were  still  needed. 

As  an  additional  proof,  the  captain  showed  us  a  photo- 
graph of  the  sequel  to  that  act  of  piracy.  For,  as  a  matter 
of  course,  the  British  Government  demanded  satisfaction  for 
this  outrage,  and  in  compliance  nineteen  criminals  were 
beheaded.  Whether  they  were  the  actual  pirates,  however, 
has  been  doubted.  China  always  has  scores  of  men  awaiting 
execution — a  dozen  here,  a  dozen  there.  What  matters  it 
if  those  who  merit  death  are  said  to  have  committed  one 
crime  or  another?  England  had  no  way  of  identifying  them. 
Accordingly  she  shut  her  eyes,  accepted  what  the  Chinese  said 
of  them,  and  took  it  for  granted  that  the  decapitated  men 
were  the  real  culprits.  At  all  events,  as  an  eye-witness  told 
us,  the  deed  itself  was  quickly  done.      In  each  case  there  was 


WITH   STARING    EVES  TURNED   UPWARD. 


38 


CHINA 


AN   OLD   CHINESE    FORT,  CANTON    RIVER. 


only  one  swing  of  the  executioner's  arm,  and  one  flash  of  the 
two-edged  sword;  then,    like  a  row  of  flowers  clipped  from 
their  stems,  the  heads  of  all  the  kneeling  criminals  were  lying 
in     the     sand, 
with     staring 
eyes  turned  up- 
ward   t  o  ^\'  a  r  d 
the  sky. 

On  leaving 
this  repulsive 
picture    in    the 

captain's  cabin,  we  found  that  we  were  approaching  the  once 
important  settlement  of  Whampoa,      Its  glory  is  gone  now, 

but  formerly  it 
played  a  prom- 
inent part  in 
Eastern  politics 
and  commerce; 
for  previous  to 
the  Opium  War 
of  1 841  and  the 
establishment  of 
the  Treaty  Ports, 
this  was  as  far 
as  foreign  ships 
were  permitted 
to  come,  and 
Whampoa  was 
then  a  kind  of 
counter  across 
which  Cantonese 
and  Europeans  traded.  We  now  began  to  observe  along  the 
shore  strange-looking  boats  protected  by  a  roof  and  filled  with 
fruits  and  vegetables  for  the  Canton  market.      Moreover,  on 


OPIUM -SMOKING. 


CHINA 


41 


both  sides  of  the  river  for  many  miles  we  U)oked  on  countless 
little  patches  of  rice,  bananas,  oranges,  and  sugar-cane.  At 
one  point  our  attention  was  called  to  an  island  on  which  are 
some  old  fortifications  used  by  China  fifty  years  ago  in  her 
attempt  to  exclude  opium  from  her  territory,  I  suppose  that 
no  intelligent  student  of  the  subject  doubts  that  the  real  cause 
of  the  war  of  184  1  was  the  attempt  of  England  to  force  upon 
the  Chinese  a  drug  which  no  one  dares  to  sell  in  London,  even 
now,  unless  it  bears  the  label  "poison."  In  1840,  the  Com- 
missioner of 
Canton  t  h  u  s 
addressed  the 
Queen  of  Eng- 
land : 

"  How  can 
your  country 
seek  to  acquire 
wealth  by  sell- 
ing us  an  article 
so  injurious  to 
mankind  ?  I 
have  heard  that 
you  have  a  gen- 
erous heart;  you  must  be  willing,  therefore,  to  obey  the 
motto  of  Confucius,  and  refuse  to  do  to  others  what  you 
would  not  have  others  do  to  you." 

In  an  address  to  foreign  traders,  issued  in  1840,  the 
Chinese  also  said:  "Reflect  that  if  you  did  not  bring  opium 
here,  where  could  our  people  obtain  it?  Shall,  then,  our  peo- 
ple die,  and  your  lives  not  be  required?  You  arc  destroying 
human  life  for  the  sake  of  gain.  You  should  surrender  your 
opium  out  of  regard  for  the  natural  feelings  of  mankind.  If 
not,  it  is  right  for  us  to  drive  every  ship  of  your  nation  from 
our  shores." 


A  UnUHIkU  HUHK,U., 


42 


CHINA 


Finding  that  these  appeals  were  of  no  avail,  the  Chinese 
finally  compelled  the  British  merchants  in  Canton  to  give  up 
all  the  opium  in  their  possession.  It  amounted  to  twenty- 
one  thousand   chests,  or  about   three   million   pounds.      This 


THE  CURSE   OF  CHINA. 


mass  of  poison  the  Chinese  threw  into  the  river,  chest  after 
chest,  much  as  Americans  treated  English  tea  in  Boston 
harbor.  As  it  dissolved,  it  is  said  that  a  large  number  of 
fish  died.  England  retaliated  by  broadsides  from  her  men- 
of-war,  and  in  1842,  after  an  unequal  struggle,  China  was 
forced  to  pay  her  victorious  enemy  twenty-one  million  dollars 
— si.x  millions  for  the  opium  destroyed,  and  fifteen  millions 
as  a  war  indemnity,  besides  giving  to  England  as  her  property 
forever,  the  island  of  Hong-Kong,  and  opening  five  new  ports 
to  foreign  trade. 

About  a  century  ago  opium  was  rarely  used  in  China 
except  as  medicine.  To-day  it  enters  through  the  openings 
made   by   English  cannon,  at  the  rate  of  six  thousand  tons  a 


CHINA 


43 


year,  and  at  an  annual  profit  to  the  Indian  treasury  of  from 
thirty  to  forty  milhon  dollars.  But  this  is  not  the  worst: 
the  vice  of  opium-smoking  has  spread  with  such  rapidity  that 
in  one  Chinese  city  alone,  where  thirty  years  ago  only  five 
opium  dens  existed,  there  are  now  five  thousand.  In  the 
minds  of  many  Chinamen,  therefore,  Christianity  is  principally 
associated  with  the  gift  of  opium  and  its  attendant  evils. 
China  has  now  begun  to  cultivate  the  poppy  for  herself,  and  in 
some  provinces  six-tenths  of  the  land  is  given  over  to  produc- 
ing opium,  to  the  great  detriment  of  agriculture.  For  the 
Chinese  argue  that  if  they  must  have  it  anyway,  they  may  as 
well  profit  by  it  themselves,  and  let  their  own  crop  vie  with 
that  which  England  sends  from  India.  It  should  be  said  that 
earnest  protests  have  often  been  made  by  conscientious  Eng- 
lishmen against   this  conduct  of   their   Government,  but   all 


A   VILLAGE   SCENE. 


remonstrances  have  failed  to  change  its  policy.  Hence,  when 
our  British  cousins  sometimes  humorously  say  that  we  Ameri- 
cans worship  only  the  almighty  dollar,  it  may  be  well  to  ask 
if  any  deity  under  the  sun  is  more  devoutly  reverenced  than 
the  omnipotent  pounds,  shillings,  and  pence. 


44 


CHINA 


When  we  had  steamed  about  five  hours  from  Hong-Kong, 
we  came  in  sight  of  our  first  Chinese  pagoda.  It  is  a  hollow 
tower  of  brick  about  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  re- 
sembles, on  an  enormous  scale,  one  of  those  tapering  sticks 
which  jewelers  use  for  sizing  rings.  At  first,  I  thought  that 
the  nine  circular  terraces  which  mark  its  different  stories  were 
adorned  with  flags  or  tapestry,  but  closer  scrutiny  revealed  the 
melancholy  fact  that  weeds  and  bushes  are  now  growing  here. 
Indeed,  like  most  of  the  sacred  buildings  that  I  saw  in  China, 
it  looked  both  dirty  and  dilapidated. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  neglected  edifice,  we  found  ourselves 
amid  a  constantly  increasing  throng  of  Chinese  boats,  and  I 
began  to  realize  that  these  were  specimens  of  that  "floating 
population"    of   Canton    of    which    we    have   all    read,  but  of 

which  nothing  but  a  visit  to  it  can 
give  an  adequate  idea. 

Hardly  was  our  steamer  an- 
chored in  the  stream  before  the 
city,  when  hundreds  of  these  boats 
closed  in  upon  us  on  all  sides, 
like  cakes  of  floating  ice  around  a 
vessel  in  the  Arctic  sea.  Wedging 
and  pushing  frantically,  the  boat- 
men almost  swamped  themselves. 
They  fought  for  places  near  the 
ship  like  men  and  women  in  a 
panic.  The  din  of  voices  sounded 
like  the  barking  of  five  hundred 
canines  at  a  dog-show  ;  and 
Chinese  gutturals  flew  through 
the  air  like  bullets  from  a  viitrail- 
leusc.      It  seemed  impossible  to  disembark  in  such,  a  mob. 

But  suddenly  I  felt  a  pressure  on  my  arm.      I  turned  and 
saw  apparently  three  laundrymen  from  the  United  States. 


PAGODA,    NEAR   CANTON   RIVER. 


CHINA 


45 


A  glance  assured  me  they  were  father  and  sons.  "Good 
morning,  sir,"  said  one  of  them  in  excellent  English,  "do 
you  know  Carter  Harrison,  of  Chicago?" 

This  question,  coming  in  such  a  place  and  at  such  a  time, 


rendered    me   speechless 

with  astonishment.  _ 

"He  mentioned  us  in  — 

his  book,  'A  Race  with  the  Sun,'"  continued  the  young 
Chinaman.  "This  is  my  father,  the  famous  guide,  Ah  Cum. 
This  is  my  brother,  and  I  am  Ah  Cum,  Jr.  The  others  are 
engaged  for  to-morrow,  but  I  can  serve  you.  Will  you 
take  me? " 

"So  you  are  Ah  Cum?"  I  rejoined;  "I  have  heard  much 
of  you.  Your  reference  book  must  be  a  valuable  autograph 
album  of  distinguished  travelers.  Yes,  we  will  take  you ; 
and,  first  of  all,  can  you  get  us  safely  into  one  of  those  boats? 
And  if  so,  who  will  guarantee  that  we  shall  not  be  mur- 
dered?" 

"Ah  Cum." 

Accordingly  we  "came,"  and  presently  found  ourselves 
in  a  boat.  I  cannot  relate  how  we  got  there.  I  do  not 
know,  myself.     I  think  of  it  now  as  one  recalls  the  pulling  of 


46 


CHINA 


a  tooth  when  under  the  influence  of  laughing-gas.  I  have  a 
dim  remembrance  of  jumping  from  one  reeHng  skiff  to  another, 
of  stumbHng  over  sHppery  seats,  of  holding  on  to  Ah  Cum,  Sr. , 
and  being  pushed  by  Ah  Cum,  Jr.,  and  now  and  then  grabbing 
frantically  at  a  Chinese  queue,  as  a  drowning  man  catches  at 
a  rope.  The  only  reason  that  I  did  not  fall  into  the  water  is 
that  there  was  not  space  enough  between  the  boats.  At  last, 
however,  bruised  and  breathless,  we  reached  a  place  of  ref- 
uge, and  watched  our  boatmen  fight  their  way  out  through 

the  crowd,  until 


we    landed   on 
the    neighbor- 
-— — ^^___  i n g   island   of 

['  vguflHBHyij^^K^^Hj^H       Shameen.     Af- 

ter the  pande- 
monium around 
the  steamer,  this 
seemed  a  per- 
fect paradise 
of  beauty  and 
repose.  It  is 
about  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  reserved  exclusively  for  foreigners. 

Shaded  by  drooping  banyan  trees,  stand  many  handsome 
houses  inhabited  by  Englishmen,  Germans,  and  Americans 
whom  the  necessities  of  business  keep  in  banishment  here. 
Their  social  life  is  said  to  be  very  pleasant,  and  I  should 
think,  indeed,  that  in  so  small  a  settlement  the  members  of 
this  little  colony  (if  they  did  not  hate)  would  love  each 
other  cordially.  This  pretty  place,  before  the  capture  of 
Canton,  in  1857,  was  nothing  but  a  hideous  mud-bank. 
But  foreigners  have  transformed  it  almost  as  completely  as 
they    have    Hong-Kong,   and    have    built    around    it    broad 


CHINESE  BOATS,  CANTON. 


CHINA 


49 


embankments  made  of  solid  granite,  which  form  an  agreeable 
promenade. 

Unfortunately,  however,  Shameen  boasts  of  only  one 
hotel,  and  of  this  such  dismal  stories  had  been  told  us  that  we 
had  half  made  up  our  minds  to  eat  and  sleep  on  the  American 
steamers,  changing  from  one  to  another  every  morning  as  they 


INTERIOR   OF    A    EUROPEAN  S   HOUSE. 


came  and  went.  This  seemed,  however,  so  difficult,  that  we 
resolved  to  try  the  accommodations  here.  We  did  so,  and 
discovered  that  in  this  case  "the  devil  is  not  so  black  as  he 
is  painted."  At  all  events,  clean,  comfortable  rooms  made 
some  amends  for  a  meager  bill  of  fare. 

I  cherish  no  delightful  recollections  of  our  meals  on  the 
island  of  Shameen.  In  fact,  when  a  "globe-trotter"  has 
reached    India   or  China,  the  time  has  come  for  him  to  eat 


50 


CHINA 


what  he  can  get,  and  be  devoutly  thankful  that  he  can  get 
anything.  Misguided  souls  who  live  to  eat  should  never 
make  a  journey  around  the  world.  Of  course,  the  foreign 
residents  here  live  better  than  travelers  at  hotels;  but  a  gen- 
tleman who  entertained  us  apologized  for  his  poor  table,  and 
said  that  it  was  especially  difficult  to  get  good  beef,  since 
Chinamen  consider  it  extravagant  to  kill  such  useful  animals 
as  cows  and  oxen.      "Accordingly,"  he  added,  "we  classify 

the  so-called 
beef  that  we  con- 
sume as  'donkey 
beef,'  'camel 
beef,'  and  'preci- 
pice beef.' 

"  Precipice 
beef  I  "  I  ex- 
claimed," what  in 
the  world  do  you 
mean  by  'preci- 
pice beef?' 

"That,"  he 
replied,  "is  near- 
est to  the  genu- 
ine article,  for  it  is  the  product  of  a  cow  that  has  killed 
herself  by  falling  over  a  precipice." 

On  one  side  of  this  island  flows  the  Canton  river,  and  on 
the  other  is  a  small  canal  which  separates  it  from  the  city. 
Two  bridges  span  this  narrow  stream,  each  having  iron  gates 
which  are  invariably  closed  at  night  and  guarded  by  sen- 
tinels. No  Chinese,  save  employees  of  the  foreigners,  may 
come  within  this  reservation.  In  1883,  however,  a  Chinese 
mob  attacked  it  fiercely,  and  swarmed  across  the  bridges,  as 
the  legendary  mice  invaded  Bishop  Hatto's  tower  on  the 
Rhine.     The   English,  French,  and   German  families  escaped 


THE   JINRIKISHA    IS    CHINA. 


CHINA 


51 


SIAKIIMG    FOR   CANTON. 


to  steamers  in  the  river,  leaving  their  houses  to  be  plundered 
or  burned.  During  my  stay  here,  every  evening  when  this 
bridge  was  closed,  and  every  morning  when  it  was  reopened, 
I  heard  a  hideous  din  of  drums  and  horns,  concluding  with 
the  firing  of  a  blunderbuss.  Our  consul  told  me  that  the 
object  of  all  this  was  to  inspire  fear.  "Tremble  and  obey!  " 
are  the  words  which  close  all  Government  proclamations  in  the 
Chinese  empire. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  found  awaiting  us  outside 
the  hotel  door  some  coolies 
with    the    sedan  -  chairs    in 


BRIDGE    AT 


Jt*df 


52 


CHINA 


which  we  were  to  make  our  first  excursion  through  Canton. 
Another  party  also  was  about  to  start,  including  several  ladies, 
each  of  whom  held  in  her  hand  either  a  flask  of  smelling-salts 
or  a  piece  of  camphor  wrapped  in  a  handkerchief.  In  fact, 
the  druggists  of  Hong-Kong  do  quite  a  business  in  furnish- 
ing visitors  to  Canton  with  disinfectants  and  restoratives. 
Some  of  these  ladies  feared  being  insulted  by  the  Canton  pop- 
ulace, and  told 
^g^NTf   I  i  T'  T  P^  I  ^m  .  . 

V*  lJ_r\LXJ_/    X- ^^H      exciting    stories 

of  an  English 
lady  who  had 
been  recently 
spat  upon,  and 
of  American 
ladies  who  had 
been  followed  by 
a  hooting  crowd. 
Ah  Cum,  how- 
ever, smiled 
complacently. 

"There  is  no 
danger,"  he  as- 
sured us;  "my 
father  will  take 
care  of  you  la- 
dies, as  I  will  of 
these  gentlemen.  Every  one  here  knows  us.  Our  people 
are  always  safe." 

Accordingly  we  started,  crossed  the  bridge,  and  two  min- 
utes later  found  ourselves  engulfed,  like  atoms  in  a  sewer,  in 
the  fetid  labyrinth  of  Canton.  One  should  not  be  surprised 
that  illustrations  of  its  streets  are  not  clearer.  The  marvel  is 
that  they  are  visible  at  all!  "Streets,"  as  we  understand 
the  word,  they  cannot  be  truthfully  called.     They  are  dark, 


A    CANTON    SlKlilil 


CHINA 


55 


tortuous  alle\^s,  destitute  of  sidewalks,  and  from  four  to  eight 
feet  wide,  winding  snake-like  between  long  lines  of  gloomy 
shops.  Comparatively  little  daylight  filters  through  them  to 
the  pavement,  not  only  by  reason  of  their  narrow  limits,  but 
from  the  fact  that  all  these  passageways  are  largely  filled  up, 
just  above  the  people's  heads,  with  strips  of  wood,  which 
serve  as  advertising  placards.  Many  of  them  are  colored 
blue,  red,  white,  or  green,  and  bear  strange  characters,  gilded 
or  painted  on 
ihcir  surfaces. 
These  in  the 
dark  perspec- 
tive of  a  crowd- 
ed alley  look  like 
the  banners  of 
some  long  pro- 
cession. 

These  letters 
do  not  give 
the  merchants* 
names,  but  serve 
as  trade-marks, 
like     the     dedi- 


TEMILE    OF    CONHCIIS.  CANTON. 


catory  words 
above  the  doors  of  shops  in  France.  How  any  one  can  read 
them  is  a  mystery-;  not  merely  on  account  of  the  twilight 
gloom,  but  from  the  fact  that  here  at  every  step  one  comes 
in  contact  with  a  multitude  of  repulsive  Chinamen,  many  of 
them  naked  to  the  waist,  who  seem  compressed  within  this 
narrow  space  like  a  wild  torrent  in  a  gorge.  To  stop  in  such 
a  place  and  read  a  sign  appeared  to  me  as  difficult  as  study- 
ing the  leaves  of  the  trees  while  riding  through  a  forest  on  a 
Texas  broncho. 

As   our  bearers  pushed    their  way   through   these   dark, 


CHINA 


narrow  lanes,  the  people  squeezed  themselves  against  the 
walls  to  let  us  pass;  then  closed  about  us  instantly  again,  like 
sharks  around   the  stern  of  a  boat.      At  any  moment  I  could 

have  touched  a  dozen  naked 
shoulders  with  my  hand,  and 
twice  as  many  with  my  cane. 
Meanwhile,  to  the  noise  of  the 
loquacious  multitude  were 
added  the  vociferations  of  our 
bearers,  who  shouted  constantly 
for  people  to  make  way,  ascrib- 
ing to  us,  we  were  told,  dis- 
tinguished titles  that  evidently 
excited  curiosity  even  among 
the  stolid  Chinamen.  Occasion- 
ally we  met  a  sedan-chair  com- 
ing in  the  opposite  direction. 
Both  sets  of  bearers  then  began 
to  yell  like  maniacs,  and  we 
would  finally  pass  each  other 
with  the  utmost  difficulty,  our  coolies  having  frequently  to 
back  the  chair-poles  into  one  shop,  and  then  run  them  for- 
ward into  a  doorway  on  the  opposite  corner,  thereby  blocking 
the  noisy,  surly  crowd  until  the  passage  could  be  cleared. 

The  faces  packed  about  us,  while  not  positively  hostile, 
were  as  a  rule  unfriendly.      An  insolent  stare  was 
characteristic  of  most  of  them.      Some  disagreeable 
criticisms  were  pronounced,  but    Ah  Cum's 
expression  never  changed,  and  we,  of  course, 
could    not    understand     them. 
Once  a  banana-skin,  thrown 
probably   by  a    mischievous 
boy,  flew  by  my  head;  and       #^Eii|^1J^'^ 
I    was    told    that    China's 


A   WHEELBARROW   FOR   FRElGHTi 


A    CANTON'    COOLIE. 


CHINA 


57 


favorite  exclamation,  "foreign  devils,"  was  often  heard.  But 
I  dare  say  that  if  a  Chinese  mandarin,  in  full  regalia,  were  to 
walk  through  some  of  our  streets,  he  would  not  fare  as  well 
as  we  did  in  Can- 
ton ;  and  that  if 
he  ever  went  to 
the  B  o  vv  e  r  y  . 
"he  'd  never  go 
there  anymore." 
As  we  kept 
passing  on 
through  other 
alleys  teeming 
with  half  -  clad 
specimens  of  the 
great  unwashed, 
I  called  to  mind 

the  fact  that  this  low  class  in  China  has  been  deliberately 
taught  to  hate,  despise,  and  thoroughly  distrust  all  foreigners. 
The  unjust  opium  war  with  England,  the  recent  territorial 
war  with  France,  the  stories  told  them  of  the  treatment  of 
their  countrymen  in  the  United  States, — all  these  would,  of 


ONE   OF  TIIK    llKOAllh 


CHINESE  TEA- PICKERS. 


S' 


CHINA 


themselves,  be  enough  to  make  them  hostile;  but  they  are  as 
nothing  to  the  effect  produced  upon  an  ignorant,  superstitious 
populace  by  the  placards  posted  on  the  walls  of  many  Chinese 
cities.  I  read  translations  of  a  few  of  these,  and  I  believe 
they  cannot  be  surpassed  in  literature  for  the  vulgarity  and 
infamy  of  their  accusations.  They  are  in  one  sense  perfectly 
absurd ;  but  when  we  recollect  the  riotous  acts  to  which  they 


CHINESE   MERCHANTS    DRINKING  TEA. 


have  frequently  incited  their  deluded  victims,  they  challenge 
serious  consideration. 

On  entering  some  of  the  shops  that  line  these  passage- 
ways, I  was  astonished  at  the  contrast  they  presented  to  the 
streets  themselves.  The  latter  are  at  times  no  more  than 
four  feet  wide.  Not  so  the  shops.  Many  of  them  have  a 
depth  of  eighty  feet,  and  in  the  centre  are  entirely  open  to 
the  roof.  In  the  corner  of  each  is  placed  a  little  shrine.  A 
gallery  extends  around  the  second  story,  and  on  that  floor,  or 


CHINA 


59 


HAI.L   IN    A   CHINESE   HOUSE. 


in  the  rear  of  the  building,  the  owners  Hve.  Some  of  these 
shops  are  handsomely  adorned  with  fine  wood-carving  and 
bronze  lamps,  and  on  the  shelves  is  stored  a  great  variety  of 
goods,  frequently 
including  articles 
as  dissimilar  as 
silk  and  cotton 
fabrics,  fans, 
jewelry,  umbrel- 
las, Waterbury 
clocks,  and  Chi- 
nese shoes. 

Among  these 
shops  we  saw  a 
building  used  partly  as  a  temple  and  partly  as  the  Guild  Hall 
for  the  Canton  silk  merchants.  Guilds,  or  trade-unions,  have 
existed  here  for  centuries.     They  permeate  every  branch  of 

Chinese  indus- 
try, legal  and 
illegal.  Even 
the  thieves  form 
themselves  into 
a  guild,  and  I 
suppose  there  is 
"honor"  among 
them.  The 
origin  of  these 
unions  is  partly 
due  to  unjust 
taxation.  Can- 
ton contains  a 
vast  amount  of  wealth,  but  those  possessing  it  are  careful 
to  conceal  all  trace  of  any  superabundance.  On  this  account 
disputes  between  the  various  guilds  are  settled   by  arbitra- 


A   CHINESE   BED   AND    FURNITURE. 


6o 


CHINA 


tion.  To  allow  their  affairs  to  go  into  court  would  show  too 
plainly  to  the  tax-collectors  their  financial  status.  Accord- 
ingly litigation  is  almost  unknown.  Moreover,  when  a  case 
is  settled  by  arbitration,  the  losing  party  not  only  pays  the 
disputed  sum,  but  is  obliged  to  give  a  supper  to  the  victor. 

In  another  building  that  we  passed  I  saw  a  curious  cere- 
mony, which  Ah  Cum  explained  as  that  of  three  Buddhist 
priests  who  were  clearing  a  house  of  evil  spirits.      It  appears 

that,  two  weeks  before,  a 
man  had  committed  sui- 
cide on  the  premises,  in 
order  to  avenge  himself  on 
the  proprietor.  For  in 
China  a  man,  instead  of 
killing  his  enemy,  some- 
times kills  himself,  the 
motive  being  a  desire  that 
the  hated  one  shall  be  re- 
garded as  responsible  for 
his  death,  and  be  pursued 
by  evil  spirits  here  and  in 
the  world  to  come.  To 
be  annoyed  by  ghosts  must 
be  exceedingly  unpleasant, 
but,  on  the  whole,  I  hope 
that  all  my  enemies  will  try  the  Chinese  method. 

Occasionally  we  discovered  in  these  streets  an  itinerant 
barber.  These  Chinese  Figaros  carry  their  outfits  with  them. 
First  in  importance  comes  a  bamboo  pole,  which  is  the  im- 
memorial badge  of  their  profession.  To  this  is  usually 
attached  one  solitary  towel, — free  to  every  customer.  From 
one  extremity  of  this  pole  hangs  a  small  brass  basin,  together 
with  a  charcoal  stove  for  heating  water-  the  other  end  is 
balanced  by  a  wooden  cabinet,  which  serves  the  patient  as  a 


EXORCISING  SPIRITS. 


LADY  AND  MAID. 


CHINA 


seat  during  the  operation,  and   contains  razors,  lancets,  twee- 
zers, files,  and  other  surgical  instruments. 

It  matters  not  where  one  of  these  tonsorial  artists  prac- 
tises his  surgery.  A  temple  court,  a  flight  of  steps,  a  street, 
or  a  back-yard,  are  quite  the  same  to  him.  He  takes  his 
queue  where  he  can  find  it.  One  of  his  commonest  duties  is 
to  braid  that  customary  appendage  to  a  Chinaman's  head, 
without  which  he  would 
be  despised.  It  is  com- 
ical to  estimate  the 
thousands  of  miles  of 
Chinese  queues  which 
even  one  barber  twists 
in  the  course  of  his 
career — enough,  if  tied 
together,  end  to  end. 
to  form  a  cable  between 
Europe  and  America. 
Yet  this  singular  style 
of  hair -dressing  (now 
so  universal)  was  in- 
troduced into  China 
only  two  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ago.  Before 
that  time  the  Chi- 
nese, wore  full  heads  of  hair,  and  the  present  fashion  of 
shaved  crowns  and  twisted  queues  is  of  Tartar  origin,  and  was 
imposed  by  a  conquering  dynasty  as  a  badge  of  servitude. 
The  wearing  of  a  mustache  in  China  is  an  indication  that  he 
whose  face  it  adorns  is  a  grandfather.  In  fact,  until  he  is 
forty-five  years  old,  a  Chinaman  usually  shaves  his  face  com- 
pletely ;  but  this  fact  does  not  prove  that  after  that  time  he 
can  dispense  with  the  services  of  a  barber.  For  the  tonsorial 
art  in  China  is  exceedingly  varied ;  and  Chinese  barbers  not 


CHINESE   BARBER. 


64 


CHINA 


A   CHINESE    MERCHANT. 


only  braid  the  queue ;  they  also  shave 
the  eyebrows,  clean  the  ears,  pull 
teeth,  and  massage.  Moreover,  they 
scrape  the  inside  of  their  victim's  eye- 
lids—  a  custom  which  is  believed  by 
foreigners  to  be  the  cause  of  much 
of  the  ophthalmia  in  China. 

Chinese  fortune-tellers  had  for  me 
a  singular  fascination.  I  found  them 
everywhere — in  temple  courts,  at  gate- 
ways and  beside  the  roads — invariably 
wearing  spectacles,  and  usually  seated 
at  a  table  decorated  with  huge  Chinese 
characters.  Their  services  seemed  to 
be  in  great  demand.  In  every  case 
the  ceremony  was  the  same.  Each  applicant  in  turn  ap- 
proached, and  stated  what  he  wished  to  know;  for  example, 
whether  a  certain  day  would  be  a  lucky  time  for  him  to  buy 
some  real  estate,  or  which  of  several  girls  his  son  would  better 
marry.  Upon  the  table  stood  a  tin  box  full  of  bamboo  sticks. 
One  of  these 
slips  the  cus- 
tomer drew  at 
random,  and 
from  the  sen- 
tence written  on 
it  the  fortune- 
teller gave  his 
answer  in  oracu- 
la  r  words  — 
which  could,  as 
usual,  be  inter- 
preted in  vari- 
ous ways. 


A  CHINESE   FORTUNE-TELLER. 


CHINA 


65 


A    WALL  OF   CANTON. 


At  length, 
however,  leav- 
ing for  a  time 
the  shops  and 
dimly  -  lighted 
alleys,  we  found 
ourselves  ap- 
proaching a 
huge  gate.  For 
Canton,  like 
most  other 
Chinese  cities,  is  divided  into  certain  districts,  each  of  which 
is  separated  from  the  adjoining  one  by  a  wall.  The  gateways 
in  these  walls  are  always  closed  at  night,  and  are  of  special 
use  in  case  of  fires  or  insurrections,  since  they  are  strong 
enough  to  hold  in  check  a  surging  crowd  till  the  police  or  sol- 
diers can  arrive. 

Passing  through  this  portal,  we  made  our  way  along  the 
wall  until  we  arrived  at 
a  prominent  point  of  ob- 
servation, known  as  the 
Five  -  storied  Pagoda. 
Whatever  this  may  once 
have  been,  it  is  to-day  a 
shabby,  barn-like  struc- 
ture, marked  here  and 
there  with  traces  of  red 
paint,  like  daubs  of 
rouge  on  a  clown's  face. 
All  visitors  to  Canton, 
however,  will  recollect 
the  building,  with  a  cer- 
tain amount  of  pleasure, 
as  being  the  resting-place 


THE    FIVE- STORIED    PAGODA. 


66 


CHINA 


in  which  one  eats  the  lunch  brought  from  the  steamer  or 
hotel.  Not  that  there  is  not  food  of  certain  kinds  obtainable 
in  Canton  itself,  but  somehow  what  one  sees  of  Chinese  deli- 
cacies here  does  not  inspire  him  with  a  desire  to  partake  of 


^l^^^^^^^^^^v 

! 

■^ 

m 

-m 

■  ~ 

i 

J 

1 

IJIIIIIHIJ     J 

\^_ 

A    WAYSIDE    RKSTAIRANT. 


them.  In  one  of  Canton's  streets,  for  example,  I  entered  a 
cat-restaurant.  Before  the  door  was  a  notice  which  Ah  Cum 
translated  thus:  "Two  fine  black  cats  to-day,  ready  soon." 
On  stepping  inside,  I  heard  some  pussies  mewing  piteously  in 
bamboo  cages.  Hardly  had  I  entered  when  a  poor  old 
woman  brought  the  proprietor  some  kittens  for  sale.  He  felt 
of  them  to  test  their  plumpness,  as  we  might  weigh  spring 
chickens.  Only  a  small  price  was  offered,  as  they  were  very 
thin,  but  the  bargain  was  soon  concluded,  the  woman  took 
her  money,  and  the  cadaverous  kittens  went  to  swell  the 
chorus  in  the  cages.  Black  cats,  by  the  way,  cost  more  in 
China  than  cats  of  any  other  color,  for  the  Chinese  believe 
that  the  flesh  of  dark-coated  felines  makes  good  blood. 


CHINA 


67 


To  some  Chinamen,  dogs  fried  in  oil  are  also  irresistible. 
In  one  untidy  street,  swarming  with  yellow'-skinned  human- 
ity, we  saw  a  kind  of  gipsy  kettle  hung  over  a  wood  fire. 
Within  it  was  a  stew  of  dog-meat.  Upon  a  pole  close  by 
was  hung  a  rump  of  uncooked  dog,  with  the  tail  left  on,  to 
show  the  patrons  of  this  open-air  restaurant  to  what  particu- 
lar breed  the  animal  had  belonged.  For  it  is  said  there  is  a 
great  difference  in  the  flesh  of  dogs.  Bull-terriers,  for  exam- 
ple, would  probably  be  considered  tough.  Around  this  kettle 
stood  a  group  of  coolies,  each  with  a  plate  and  spoon,  devour- 
ing the  canine  stew  as  eagerly  as  travelers  eat  sandwiches  at  a 
railway  restaurant  after  the  warning  bell  has  rung.  Some 
hungry  ones  were  looking  on  as  wistfully  as  boys  outside  a 
bun-shop.  One  man  had  such  a  famished  look  that,  through 
the  medium  of  Ah  Cum,  I  treated  him  at  once.  Moreover, 
hundreds  of  rats,  dried  and  hung  up  by  the  tails,  are  exposed 
for  sale  in  Canton  streets,  and  shark's  fins,  antique  duck 
eggs,  and  sea-slugs  are  considered  delicacies. 

We  tried  to  bring  back  photographic  proofs  of  all  these 
horrors,  but   it   was  impossible.      Whenever  we  halted  in  the 


ca 


CHINAMEN   OUT   ON    A    PICNIC. 


narrow  lanes,  in  fifteen  seconds  we  would  be  encircled  by  a 
moving  wall  of  hideous  faces,  whose  foremost  rank  kept  clos- 
ing in  on  us  until  the  atmosphere  grew  so  oppressive  that  we 
gasped  for  breath  and  told  our  bearers  to  move  on.      Nor   is 


68 


CHINA 


this  all.     These  crowds  were  sometimes  positively  hostile.    A 
superstitious  fear  of  being  photographed  by  "foreign  devils" 
made  them  dangerous.      This  fact  was  several  times  made  dis- 
agreeably    evi- 
dent.     Thus,  in 
a  garden  adjoin- 
ing   a   Chinese 
temple,  I  wished 
to     photograph 
some     "sacred" 
hogs  which  were 
attached    to   the 
sanctuary       in 
.HE  sAc.Ku  Hous.  g^j^^      unknown 

capacity.  But  scarcely  had  the  exposure  been  made,  when  a 
priest  gave  the  alarm,  and  in  three  minutes  a  mob  of  men  and 
boys  were   rushing  toward   us,   uttering  yells  and   throwing 


1KTING   TEA. 


stones.  Ah  Cum  himself  turned  pale.  He  sprang  in  front  of 
us,  and  swore  (may  heaven  forgive  him  !)  that  not  a  picture  had 
been  taken.     Of  course  we  offered  money  as  indemnity,  but 


CHINA 


71 


A    CHINESE    FARM-HOUSE. 


the  priests  rejected  it  with  scorn,  claiming  that  by  the  pointing 
of  the  camera  we  had  stopped  the  growth  of  the  hogs.  I  do 
not  think  I  exaggerate  the  situation  when  I  say  that  if  the 
politic  Ah  Cum   had  not  been  there  to  defend  us,  we  should 

have  suffered 
personal  injury. 
Standing  up- 
on the  summit  of 
the  Five-storied 
Pagoda,  we 
looked  out  over 
the  city  of  Can- 
ton. For  wide- 
spread, unre- 
lieved monotony,  I  never  saw  the  equal  of  that  view  in  any 
place  inhabited  by  human  beings.  True,  the  confusion  of  the 
foreground  was  to  be  excused,  since  a  tornado  had  recently 
blown  down  many  of  the  native  houses.  But  far  beyond  this 
mass  of  ruins,  stretching  on 
and  on  for  miles,  was  the  same 
monotonous,  commonplace 
vista  of  low,  uninteresting 
buildings,  seamed  with  mere 
crevices  in  lieu  of  streets. 
Meantime,  from  this  vast  area 
came  to  us  a  dull,  persistent 
hum,  like  the  escape  of  steam 
from  a  locomotive,  reminding 
us  that  here  were  swarming 
nearly  two  million  human  be- 
ings, almost  as  difficult  for  a 
foreigner  to  distinguish  or 
identify  as  ants  in  a  gigantic 

ant-nill.  xhe  flowerv  pagoda,  canton. 


72 


CHINA 


The  exact  population  of  Canton  is  hard  to  determine. 
The  number  arrived  at  depends  upon  where  one  leaves  off 
counting  the  three  hundred  suburban  villages,  each  of  which 
seems  a  part  of  the  city.  Bishop  Harper,  who  lived  here  for 
forty  years,  says,  that  if  one  should  plant  a  stake  in  the  centre 
of  Canton,  and  count  all  around  it  within  a  radius  of  ten 
miles,  one  would  find  an  aggregate  of  three-and-a-half  million 
people.      One  village,  for  example,  eleven  miles  away,  noted 

forsilkand  other 
manufactures,  is 
thought  to  con- 
tain eight  hun- 
dred thousand 
inhabitants. 

Out  of  this 
wilderness  of 
mediocrity  there 
rose  in  one  place 
a  pagoda,  which 
by  contrast 
seemed  to  pos- 
sess prodigious 
height ;  but  such 
objects  are  ex- 
ceptional. To  understand  what  Canton  is  like,  one  must 
picture  to  himself  a  city  which,  with  its  suburbs,  is  larger 
and  more  populous  than  Paris,  yet  has  not  one  handsome 
avenue,  one  spacious  square,  or  even  one  street  that  pos- 
sesses the  slightest  claim  to  cleanliness  or  beauty.  Worse 
than  this,  it  is  a  city  without  a  single  Chinese  building  in  its 
whole  extent  that  can  be  even  distantly  compared  in  archi- 
tectural elegance  with  thousands  of  imposing  structures  in 
any  other  city  of  the  civilized  world.  "But  are  there  no 
European  edifices  in  Canton?"  the  reader  may  perhaps  in- 


CANTONESE   PAWN-SHOPS. 


CHINA 


73 


quire.  Yes,  one,  which  makes  the  contrast  only  more  appar- 
ent. It  is  the  Roman  Catholic  cathedral,  whose  lofty  tow- 
ers are,  strangely  enough,  the  first  objects  in  the  city  which 
the  traveler  sees  in  sailing  up  the  river  from  Hong-Kong. 
This  handsome  Gothic  structure,  built  entirely  of  granite, 
rising  from  such  a  sea  of  architectural  ugliness,  at  once 
called  forth  our  admiration.  To  the  Chinese,  however,  these 
graceful  towers  are  objects  of  the  utmost  hatred.  It  angers 
them  to  see  this  area,  which  French  and  English  conquerors 
obtained  by  treaty,  still  occupied  by  a  Christian  church.  So 
far,  it  has  escaped  destruction;  but  there  are  those  who 
prophesy  its  doom  and 
say  that  the  time  will 
come  when  not  one  stone 
of  it  will  be  left  upon 
another. 

There  are,  however, 
five  or  six  other  buildings 
in  Canton,  which  rival 
the  pagoda  and  the  Cath- 
olic church  in  height. 
These  hideous  objects, 
which  look  like  mon- 
strous granite  boxes  set 
on  end,  are  pawn-shops. 
One  might  conclude  from 
their  enormous  size  that 
half  the  personal  property 
of  the  Cantonese  was  in 
pawn.  They  certainly 
are  well  patronized,  for 
pawning  clothes  is  such 
a  common  thing  in  China 
that    hundreds    of    the 


CATHOLIC  CATHEDRAL,  CANTON. 


74 


CHINA 


Cantonese  send  here  for  safe-keeping  their  furs  and  overcoats 
in  summer,  and  their  thin  summer  clothes  in  winter,  receiving 
money  for  them  as  from  any  pawn-broker.  The  Chinese 
mode  of  guarding  these  tall  structures  against  thieves  is  cer- 
tainly unique.  Upon  the  roofs  are  piled  stones  to  be  dropped 
upon  the  heads  of  robbers,  and  also  reservoirs  of  vitriol, 
with  syringes  to  squirt  the  horrible  acid  on  invaders. 

Astonished  at  this  lack  of  imposing  architecture,  we  asked 


TEMPLE  OF   FIVE   HUNDRED   GODS. 


if  there  were  no  temples  in  Canton.  Assuredly  there  were — 
eight  hundred  of  them,  all  more  or  less  defaced  and  incrusted 
with  dirt.  One  of  the  oldest  and  most  sacred  is  called  the 
"Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Gods,"  because  within  its  walls 
are  seated  five  hundred  life-size  images  of  gilded  wood,  repre- 
senting deified  sages  of  the  Buddhist  faith.  But  they  are  all 
coarse  specimens  of  sculpture,  and  many  are  amusing  carica- 
tures. In  front  of  each  is  a  small  jar  of  ashes,  in  which  the 
worshiper  burns  a  stick  of  incense  in  honor  of  his  favorite  god. 
Offerings  of  money,  too,  are   sometimes   made  —  but   not  of 


CHINA 


75 


AN  OLD  TEMPLE,  CANTON. 


genuine  money.  The  Chinese  are  usually  too  practical  to 
use  anything  but  imitation  money  made  of  gilded  paper.  I 
do  not  know  what  the  gods  think  of  this  Oriental  style 
of  dropping  but- 
tons in  the  con- 
tribution -  box, 
but  the  priests 
do  not  like  this 
sort  of  currency. 
They  are  all 
"hard  money" 
men. 

But,  if  we  ac- 
cept the  ancient 
proverb  that  "To 
labor  is  to  pray,"  then  are  the  Chinese  devout  indeed.  What- 
ever other  faults  they  may  possess,  idleness  is  not  one  of  them. 
The  struggle  for  existence  keeps  them  active.  Yet  they  live 
on    almost  nothing.      A  German  merchant  told  me  that  one 

of  his  coolies, 
after  twenty-five 
years  of  service, 
had  recently  had 
his  salary  raised 
to  ten  dollars  a 
month.  The 
laborer  was,  of 
course,  delight- 
ed. "Now,"  he 
exclaimed,  "  I 
intend  to  marry 
another  wife.  For  years  I  have  longed  to  have  two  wives, 
but  have  never  been  able  to  afi'ord  it;  but  now,  with  ten 
dollars  a  month,  I  can  indulge  in  luxuries!" 


APPRO  \CH   TO   A    SHRINE. 


76 


CHINA 


In  strolling  about  among  these  Chinese  coolies,  I  found 
that  life  in  China  is  indeed  reduced  to  its  lowest  terms.  In 
some  of  the  Canton  shops,  for  example,  I  saw  potatoes  sold 
in  halves  and  even  in  quarters,  and  poultry  is  offered,  not 
only  singly,  but  by  the  piece — so  much  for  a  leg,  so  much 
for  a  wing.  Second-hand  nails  are  sold  in  lots  of  half-a- 
dozen.  A  man  can 
buy  one-tenth  of  a 
cent's  worth  of  fish 
or  rice.  I  under- 
stood, at  last,  how 
Chinese  laundrymen 
can  go  home  from 
the  United  States 
after  a  few  years' 
work,  and  live 
upon  their  incomes. 
When  one  perceives 
under  what  condi- 
tions these  swarm- 
ing myriads  live,  one 
naturally  asks  how 
pestilence  can  be 
averted.  One  source  of  safety  is,  no  doubt,  the  universal 
custom  of  drinking  only  boiled  water  in  the  form  of  tea. 
If  it  were  not  for  this,  there  would  be  inevitably  a  terrible 
mortality,  for  the  coolies  take  no  precautions  against  infec- 
tion. A  gentleman  in  the  English  consular  service  told  us 
that  he  had  seen  two  Canton  women  in  adjoining  boats,  one 
washing  in  the  river  the  bedclothes  of  her  husband  who  had 
died  of  cholera,  the  other  dipping  up  water  in  which  to  cook 
the  family  dinner! 

If,    perchance,   these   people  should   fall   ill,    I    fear  they 
would  not  be  greatly  benefited  by  any  Chinese  doctor  whom 


ONE   OF   THE    MANY. 


CHINA 


77 


they  might  employ.  Chinese  physicians  are  thought  to  be 
ignoramuses,  unless  they  can  diagnose  a  case  by  merely  feeling 
the  pulse.  Hence,  if  they  are  called  to  attend  a  lady,  they 
see  of  her  usually  nothing  but  her  wrist,  thrust  out  between 
the  curtains  of  the  bed.  Those  who  prescribe  for  internal 
diseases  are  called  "inside  doctors,"  while  others  are  "out- 
side" men,  just  as  some  of  our  medicines  are  labeled  "for 
external  use  only."  A  story  is  told  of  a  man  who  had  been 
shot  through  the  arm  with  an  arrow.  He  first  applied  to  an 
"outside"  doctor,  who  cut  off  the  two  ends  of  the  weapon 
and  put  a  plaster  on  each  wound.  "But,"  said  the  patient, 
"the  remainder  of  the 
arrow  is  still  in  my 
arm."  "Ah!"  replied 
the  "outside"  doctor, 
"that  is  not  my  affair. 
To  have  that  removed, 
you  must  go  to  an  'in- 
side' man." 

One  day,  in  passing 
through  a  temple  gate, 
a  half-clad  Chinaman 
offered  me  for  sale  a 
box  of  grasshoppers, 
which,  when  ground 
into  a  powder,  make  a 
popular  remedy  for 
some  ailments.     In  fact, 

aside  from  ginseng  and  a  few  other  well-known  herbs,  the 
medicines  used  in  China  seem  almost  incredible.  A  favorite 
cure  for  fever,  for  example,  is  a  soup  of  scorpions.  Dysen- 
tery is  treated  by  running  a  needle  through  the  tongue.  The 
flesh  of  rats  is  supposed  to  make  the  hair  grow.  Dried  lizards 
are  recommended   as  a  tonic  for  "that  tired   feeling,"    and 


78 


CHINA 


A   MEMORIAL   GATE. 


iron  filings  are  said  to  be 
a  good  astringent.  Chi- 
nese physicians  say  that 
certain  diseases  are  cur- 
able only  by  a  decoction 
whose  chief  ingredient  is 
a  piece  of  flesh  cut  from 
the  arm  or  thigh  of  the 
patient's  son  or  daughter. 
To  supply  this  flesh  is 
thought  to  be  one  of  the 
noblest  proofs  of  filial  de- 
votion. This  is  not  an 
exaggeration.  In  the 
Pekin  Official  Gazette  of 
July  5,  1870,  is  an  edi- 
torial, calling  the  emperor's  attention  to  a  young  girl  who 
had  cut  off  two  joints  of  her  finger  and  dropped  them  into 
her  mother's 
medicine.  The 
mother  recov- 
ered, and  the 
governor  of  the 
province  pro- 
posed to  erect 
a  monument  in 
honor  of  the 
child. 

In  view  of 
such  a  pharma- 
copoeia, it  is  a 
comfort  to  learn 
that  in  the  Chi- 
nese theology  a 


BEGGARS  ON   THE  TEMPLE    STEPS. 


CHINA 


8i 


special  place  in  hell  is  assigned  to  ignorant  physicians.  All 
quacks  are  doomed  to  centuries  of  torture,  the  worst  fate 
being  reserved  for  doctors  who  abuse  their  professional  skill 
for  purposes  of  immorality.  Their  punishment  is  the  cheer- 
ful one  of  being  boiled  in  oil.  Another  curious,  and  not 
altogether  absurd,  custom  of  the  Chinese  is  to  pay  a  physician 
so  long  as  they  continue  in  health,   but  if  they  fall  ill,  the 


A   GROUP   OF  CHINESE   WOMEN. 


doctor's  salary  ceases  until  they  recover,  whereupon  it  com- 
mences again. 

Chinese  women  seemed  to  me,  as  a  rule,  exceedingly 
plain,  but,  even  were  they  Venuses,  one  of  their  characteris- 
tics would  make  my  flesh  creep.  I  refer  to  their  claw-like 
finger-nails,  which  are  so  long  that  apparently  they  could  be 
used  with  equal  ease  as  paper-cutters  or  stilettoes.  Gloves 
cannot  possibly  be  worn  upon  these  finger-spikes,  so  metal 
sheaths  have  been  invented  to  protect  them.     To  show  what 


I 


82 


CHINA 


LILY   FEET. 


can  be  done  in  nail-growing, 
the  following  lengths  were  meas- 
ured on  the  left  hand  of  a 
Chinese  belle:  thumb  nail,  two 
inches;  little  finger  nail,  four 
inches;  third  finger,  five  and 
one-quarter  inches.  Under 
these  circumstances  we  cannot 
wonder  that  in  China  it  is  not 
the  custom  to  shake  hands: 
otherwise,  painful  accidents 
might  occur.  Accordingly,  the 
Chinese  clasp  their  own  hands 
and  shake  them  gently  at  each 
other. 

A  still   more   repulsive  })ecu- 

liarity  of  Chinese  women  is  their  stunted   feet,  which  for  the 

purposes  of    locomotion  are    little    better  than  hoofs.        All 

Chinese  ladies  of  the  better  class 

must   have   these   "lily   feet,"    as 

they    are     called.        Sometimes    a 

Chinaman    will    have    two    wives ; 

the  first  an  ornamental  one  with 

"lily  feet,"   the   second,   a  large- 
footed  woman  for  business.      The 

origin  of  this  barbarous  custom  of 

preventing  the  growth  of  the  foot 

is  unknown.       Perhaps  it    sprang 

from  a  sentiment  which  Ah  Cum 

graphically   expressed    by  saying: 

"A  small    foot    is   much   safer  to 

live  with.     A  big  foot  runs  about 

too  easily  and  gets  into  mischief. 

Moreover,"    he    added,   with    a 


V[  liKK    AMI    (  nil  i> 


CHINA 


83 


smile,  "a  big-footed  woman  sometimes  kicks."  One  China- 
man assured  me  with  great  pride  that  his  wife's  foot  was  only 
two  and  a  half  inches  long.      There  is  a  class  of  women  here 

whose  regular  business  it  is 
to  bind  the  feet  of  little 
girls  when  about  six  years 
of  age.  The  process  of  re- 
pressing the  natural  growth 
of  the  foot  lasts  for  seven 
years — the  four  smaller 
toes  being  bent  under 
until  they  lose  their 
articulations  and  become 
identified  with  the  sole 
of  the  foot.  When  this 
has  been  accomplished, 
the  second  and  severer 
operation  commences — 
of  bringing  the  great  toe 
and  the  heel  as  nearly 
together  as  possible. 
The  bandage  is  drawn 
tighter,  month  by  month,  until  the  base  of  the  great  toe 
is  brought  into  contact  with  the  heel,  and  the  foot  has  be- 
come a  shapeless  lump.  By  this  unnatural  treatment  the 
leg  itself  becomes  deformed,  and  its  bones  are  made  not 
only  smaller  in  diameter,  but  shorter.  The  circulation  also  is 
obstructed,  and  the  large  muscles  are  .soon  completely  atro- 
phied from  disuse.  The  agony  caused  by  such  interference 
with  nature  can  be  only  faintly  imagined.  It  made  the  tears 
come  to  my  eyes  to  hear  a  Chinese  gentleman  describe  the 
methods  taken  to  console  his  suffering  children  and  help  them 
forget  their  misery.  The  poor  little  creatures  scream  and 
moan   from  the  incessant   pain,  and  often   lie  across  the  bed 


A    DISTOKIEU   FOOT. 


84 


CHINA 


with  their  legs  pressed  against  the  edge,  in  the  hope  that  this 
will  lessen  their  distress;  but  nothing  can  relieve  them  but 
freedom  from  the  torturing  bandage,  which  is  never  relaxed. 
It  makes  one  sick  at  heart  to  think  that  such  a  custom  has 
prevailed  in  China  for  more  than  a  thousand  years. 

Should  we  approach  a  group  of  Chinese  merchants  in  Can- 
ton, and  ask  any  one  of  them  "How  many  children  have 
you?  "  we  could  be  almost  certain  that  he  would  not  think  of 

counting  his  daughters,  or 
that  he  would  at  least  make 
this  distinction — "  I  have  two 
children,  and  one  girl."  For 
to  a  Chinaman  nothing  in  life 
is  so  important  as  to  have  a 
son  to  offer  sacrifices  for  him 
after  death  and  worship  at  his 
grave,  since,  in  their  opinion, 
a  daughter  is  not  capable  of 
doing  this.  When  a  boy  is 
born,  therefore,  the  father  is 
overwhelmed  with  congratu- 
lations, but  if  the  newcomer 
be  a  girl,  as  little  reference  as 
possible  is  made  to  the  mis- 
fortune. Friends  are  informed  of  the  birth  of  a  child  by  strips 
of  paper  carried  through  the  street.  If  it  be  a  boy,  yellow 
paper  is  used,  but  in  case  of  a  girl  any  color  will  do.  This 
feeling,  intensified  by  poverty,  is  the  cause  of  the  infanticide 
which  has  been,  and  still  is,  in  certain  provinces,  so  dark  a 
blot  on  the  domestic  history  of  China.  It  is  said,  for  ex- 
ample, that  in  the  vicinity  of  Amoy  thirty  per  cent,  of  all 
new-born  girls  are  strangled  or  drowned,  as  unwelcome  kit- 
tens sometimes  are  with  us. 

On   our  second   day  in  Canton   we  investigated  another 


.  v^4- 

mm 

'■•f  -  fl 

!»-' 

'J 

u. 

A   CHINESE    LADV, 


CHINA 


85 


OF  THOUSANDS. 


phase  of  Chinese 
life,  in  some  re- 
spects stranger 
than  anything 
we  had  thus  far 
seen.  Along  the 
shores  of  the 
Canton  river,  and 
in  its  various  ca- 
nals, is  a  popula- 
tion of  a  quarter 
of  a  million  souls, 
living  on  thousands  of  peculiar  boats  crowded  together  side 
by  side,  and  forming  streets,  and  even  colonies,  of  floating 
dwellings.  Moreover,  these  conditions  prevail  in  every  river- 
town  throughout  the  empire. 

Each  of  these  "sampans,"  as  they  are  called,  though  only 
about  twenty  feet  in  length,  constitutes  the  home  of  an  entire 
family.  Eight  people  frequently  live  on  one  boat — grandpa 
and  grandma,  father  and  mothei',  uncle  and  aunt,  two  or  three 

children,  and  a 
baby.  The  lat- 
ter is  tied  to  the 
back  of  its  moth- 
er, even  when  she 
is  rowing.  As 
for  the  other  chil- 
dren, their  pa- 
rents fasten 
around  them 
pieces  of  bam- 
boo, like  life-pre- 
servers, and  tie 
them  to  the  rail 


A  CHINESE   PATERFAMILIAS. 


86 


CHINA 


by  a  cord.  If  they  tumble  over,  they  float  until  some  one 
gets  a  chance  to  pull  them  in.  Upon  these  little  boats  thou- 
sands are  born,  eat,  drink,  cook,  and  sleep,  and  finally  die, 
having  known  no  other  home.  Under  the  flooring  are  stored 
their  cooking  utensils,  bedding,  clothing,  provisions,  oil,  char- 
coal, and  other  requisites  of  their  aquatic  life.      Above  them, 


A    .MAKKtT-iLACii. 


usually,  are  movable  roofs  of  bamboo  wicker-work,  to  give 
protection  from  the  sun  and  rain. 

Some  of  these  families  even  take  boarders !  I  verified  this 
by  going  at  night  among  this  floating  population,  and  found 
that  sleeping  space  on  the  boats  is  rented  to  those  who  have  no 
fixed  abode.  Planks  are  laid  over  the  seats  to  form  a  floor, 
and  on  these  lie  the  numerous  members  of  the  household  and 


CHINA 


87 


the  lodgers.  Conspicuous  figures  in  this  boat-life  are  the 
itinerant  barbers  and  physicians,  who  go  about  in  tiny  sam- 
pans, ringing  a  bell  and  offering  their  services. 

Occasionally,  however,  we  beheld  a  boat  much  larger  and 
finer  than  the  craft  around  it.  It  proved  to  be  one  of  the 
Chinese  flower-boats,  which  are  the  pleasure  resorts  of  China's 
jcuncssc  dorc'e.  By  day  they  are  conspicuous  by  their  size  and 
gilded  wood-work,  and  in  the  evening  by  their  many  lights. 
Never,  while  memory  lasts,  shall  I  forget  an  excursion  made 
at  night  with  our  hotel-proprietor  among  these  flower-boats 
and  their  surroundings.  Many  of  them  were  anchored  side 
by  side,  and  planks  were  stretched  from  one  to  the  other,  like 
a  continuous  sidewalk.  As  we  walked  along,  we  passed  by 
countless  open  doors,  each  of  which  revealed  a  room  hand- 
somely furnished  with  mirrors,  marble  panels,  and  blackwood 
furniture.  Here  were  usually  grouped  a  dozen  or  more  hilari- 
ous Chinamen,  who  were  eating,  drinking,  and  smoking,  to- 
gether with  professional  singing-girls,  who  are  hired  by  the 
owners  of  these  flower-boats  to  entertain  their  guests  with 
songs  and  dances.      We  could  not  pause  to  observe  them  care- 


88 


CHINA 


fully,  for  foreigners  are  not  wanted  here,  either  as  visitors  or 
patrons.  Meanwhile,  at  the  very  doorways  of  these  hand- 
some rooms,  beggars  in  greasy  garments  crowded  around  us 
and  almost  threateningly  demanded  alms.  "Look  out  for 
your  pockets,"  was  the  proprietor's  constant  warning. 

I  have  an  indistinct  remembrance  of  thus  passing  row 
after  row  of  lighted  boats,  room  after  room  of  painted  girls, 
group  after  group  of  sleek,  fat  Chinamen  at  tables,  and  then, 
on  leaving  these,  of  seeing  miles  of  loathsome  boats  contain- 


CHINFSE    MUSICIANS. 


ing  half-clad  men  stretched  out  on  bunks  and  stupefied  by 
opium,  hag-like  females  cooking  over  charcoal  braziers,  and 
ragged  children  huddled  in  dark  corners.  I  have  a  vivid 
recollection,  too,  of  walking  over  slimy  planks,  of  breathing 
pestilential  odors,  and  of  looking  down  on  patches  of  repul- 
sive water,  so  thick  with  refuse  that  they  resembled  in  the 
lamp-light  tanks  of  cabbage-soup.  We  also  shudderingly 
passed  some  leper-boats,  whose  inmates  are  afflicted  with  that 
terrible  disease,  and  who  are  forced  to  liv^e  as  outcasts,  beg- 
ging for  alms  by  holding  out  a  little  bag  suspended  from  a 


CHINA 


89 


bamboo  pole.  But  finally  shaking  off  the  beggars  who  had 
followed  us,  and  fleeing  from  this  multitudinous  life,  as  one 
might  turn  with  horror  from  a  pool  of  wriggling  eels,  I  stag- 
gered into  the  boat  belonging  to  the  hotel.  As  it  moved  out 
into  clearer  water,  I  drew  a  long  breath  and  looked  up  at  the 
stars.  There  they  were — calm  and  glorious  as  ever — scat- 
tered in  countless  numbers  through  measureless  space.  At 
any  time,  when  one  looks  off  into  the  vault  of  night,  our  lit- 
tle globe  seems  insignificant,  but  never  did  it  seem  to  me 
so  tiny  and 
comparatively 
valueless,  as 
w  hen  I  left 
these  myriads 
of  Chinamen, 
swarming  like 
insects  in  their 
narrow  boats, 
apparently  the 
reduction  of  hu- 
manity to  the 
grade  of  mi- 
crobes. 

The  gentle- 
man who  had  accompanied  me  on  this  occasion  was  a  Wall 
street  broker.  "Well,"  he  exclaimed  at  last,  "I  have  spent 
fifteen  years  among  the  Bulls  and  Bears,  and  I  think  my 
nerves  are  pretty  strong,  but  for  experiences  which  unnerve 
a  man,  and  things  which  (glad  as  I  am  to  have  seen  them 
once)  I  never  wish  to  see  again,  nothing  can  compare  with 
the  sights  and  smells  discovered  in  a  trip  to  Chinatown!" 

What  impressed  me  most,  however,  in  this  experience  was 
the  idea  that  the  millions  in  and  around  Canton  are  but  an 
insignificant  fraction  of  the  Chinese  race.      It  filled  me  with 


A    TVnCAl. 


90 


CHINA 


horror,  to  reflect  that  all  I  had  witnessed  here  was  but  a  tiny 
sample  of  the  entire  empire.  For  Canton  is  said  to  be  supe- 
rior to  many  Chinese  cities. 

One  writer  has  declared  that,  after  walking  through  the 
Chinese  quarter  of  Shanghai,  he  wanted  to  be  hung  on  a 
clothes-line  for  a  week  in  a  gale  of  wind.  Tientsin  is  said  to 
be  still  worse  for  dirt  and  noxious  odors.  Even  Pekin,  from 
all  accounts,  has  horribly  paved  and  filthy  thoroughfares, 
and  its  sanitary  conditions  are  almost  beyond  belief.      If  such 


A    WHKELBARROW    BUILT   FOR   TWO. 


then  be  the  state  of  things  in  the  capital,  what  must  it  be  in 
the  interior  towns,  so  rarely  reached  by  foreigners? 

It  may,  however,  be  objected  that  in  the  open  ports, 
where  they  encounter  foreign  influence,  the  people  are  at 
their  worst.  But  Chinamen  are  not  impressionable,  like  the 
North  American  Indians  or  the  aborigines  on  the  islands  in  the 
Pacific,  who  eagerly  adopt  the  vices  of  their  conquerors,  and 
speedily  succumb  to  them. 

China  is  one  of  the  oldest  countries  in  the  world.  Most  of 
her  ideas,  customs,  as  well  as  the  personal  habits  of  her  people 


CHINA 


91 


are  of  immemorial  antiquity,  and  her  inhabitants  are  too  con- 
servative to  change  them.  What  one  beholds  in  Canton, 
therefore,  may  be  fairly  supposed  to  exist  from  one  extremity 
of  the  empire  to  the  other. 

But  now,  among  so  much  that  is  disagreeable,  one  naturally 
inquires,  "Are  there  not  some  redeeming  features  in  this  Chi- 
nese life?"  I  must  confess  there  are  not  many  discernible 
to  the  passing  traveler,  but  I  will  gladly  mention  one  about 
which  I  made  careful  inquiry.  It  is  their  honesty  in  business. 
It  is  the  almost  invariable  custom  for  Chinese  merchants  every 
New-Year's  day  to  settle  their  accounts,  so  that  no  errors 
may  be  carried  over  into  the  coming  year;  and  I  was  told 
that  if  a  tradesman  fails  to  meet  his  liabilities  at  that  time,  he 
is  considered  a  defaulter  and  his  credit  is  forever  lost.  Eng- 
lish and  German  merchants  spoke  to  us  of  Chinese  commer- 
cial honor  in  the  highest  terms,  and  drew  comparisons  in  this 
respect  between  them  and  the  Japanese  which  were  not  flat- 
tering to  the  latter. 

Even  in  Japan,  I  found  at  all  the  foreign  banks,  in  some 
of  the  shops,  and  in  the  Grand  Hotel,  that  the  cashiers  were 
not  Japanese,  but  Chinamen.  Of  course,  one  who  has  never 
traded  with  them  cannot  judge  of  their  comparative  abilities 
in  a  business  way,  but  merchants  in  Yokohama,  Shanghai, 
and   Hong-Kong,  as  well  as  on  the  island  of  Shameen,  told 

us  that  Chinamen  were  more  trust- 
worthy than  the  Japanese,  and 
could    be  usually  depended  on  to 


92 


CHINA 


live  up  to  their  contracts,  whether  they  proved  favorable  or 
unfavorable. 

An  English  gentleman  who  had  resided  both  in  China  and 
Japan  for  years,  once  said  to  me:  "The  more  you  see  of 
the  Japanese  the  less  you  will  like  them.      The  more  you  see 

of  the  Chinese  the  less  you  will  dis- 
like them.  You  will  always  like  the 
Japanese;  you  will  always  dislike 
Chinamen ;  but  the  degree  in  which 
you  cherish  and  express  these  senti- 
ments will  constantly  diminish." 

Besides  the  numerous  differences 
between  Oriental  and  Occidental 
customs  noticed  in  Japan,  we  found 
in  China  many  other  proofs  of 
what  has  been  well  called  a  state 
of  topsy-turvydom.  Thus,  our  tail- 
ors draw  the  needle  inward;  Chinese 
tailors  stitch  outward.  With  us  mili- 
tary men  wear  their  swords  on  the 
left  side ;  in  China  they  are  worn  on 
the  right.  In  boxing  the  compass  a 
Chinaman  says  ''East,  West,  South, 
North."  To  mark  a  place  in  a  book 
we  turn  the  corner  of  a  page  inside; 
a  Chinaman  bends  it  the  other  way. 
We  print  the  title  of  a  volume  on 
the  back;  the  Chinese  on  the  front. 
We  play  battledore  and  shuttlecock  with  our  hands;  the 
Chinese  use  their  feet  for  a  battledore  and  catch  the  shut- 
tlecock on  their  foreheads.  We  use  our  own  names  when 
engaged  in  business;  in  China  fancy  names  are  taken.  We 
carry  one  watch  hidden  in  our  pocket ;  a  Chinese  gentleman 
sofnetimes  wears    two  outside    his    clothes,  with    their  faces 


A  CHINESE  JUNK. 


CHINA 


93 


exposed.  We 
black  our  boots ; 
the  Chinese 
whiten  theirs. 
With  us  it  is  con- 
sidered impoHte 
to  ask  a  person's 
age;  in  China  it 
is  a  high  compli- 
ment, and  there 
a  man  is  con- 
gratulated if  he 
is  old.  Men,  at  least  in 
the  Chinaman  has  none. 


SACRED    ROCKS,  INTERIOR   OF  CHINA. 

the  Occident,  have  plenty  of  pockets; 
and  uses  his  stockings  as  receptacles 
for  papers,  and  at  the  back 
of  his  neck  inserts  his  folded 
fan.  At  our  weddings  youth- 
ful bridesmaids  are  desired ; 
at  Chinese  nuptials  old  women 
serve  in  that  capacity.  We 
launch  our  vessels  lengthwise ; 
the  Chinese  launch  theirs  side- 
wise.  We  mount  a  horse 
from  the  left;  they  mount 
their  horses  from  the  right. 
We  begin  dinner  with  soup 
and  fish,  and  end  with  des- 
sert ;  they  do  exactly  the  re- 
verse. Finally,  the  spoken 
language  of  China  is  never 
written,  and  the  written  lan- 
guage is  never  spoken. 

After    all,    however,    we 
should  remember  that  China- 


LI    HUNG  CHANG  S   VISITING-CARD. 


94 


CHINA 


men  who  travel  in  our  own  country  think  that  our  customs  are 
as  strange  as  theirs  appear  to  us.  A  prominent  official  of  the 
Flowery  Kingdom,  who  made  the  tour  of  Europe  several 
years  ago,  took  notes  of  what  he  saw,  and  published  them  on 
his  return.  Among  them  are  the  following:  "Women,  when 
going  to  the  drawing-room  of  Queen  Victoria  regard  a  bare 
skin  as  a  mark  of  respect."  "When  people  meet  and  wish 
to  show  affection,  they  put  their  lips  and  chins  together  and 


A   JOSS-HOUSE. 


make  a  smacking  sound."  This  is  not  so  difficult  to  under- 
stand, when  we  recollect  that,  like  most  Orientals,  the 
Chinese  do  not  kiss,  and  that  even  a  mother  does  not  kiss  her 
own  baby,  although  she  will  press  it  to  her  cheek.  Again,  he 
thus  describes  our  dancing  parties:  "A  European  skipping 
match  is  a  strange  sight.  To  this  a  number  of  men  and 
women  come  in  couples,  and  enter  a  spacious  hall;  there,  at 
the  sound  of  music,  they  grasp  each  other  by  both  arms,  and 
leap  and  prance  backward  and  forward,  and  round  and  round, 


CHINA 


97 


till  they  are  forced  to  stop  for  want  of  breath.  All  this,"  he 
adds,  "is  most  extraordinary;"  and  when  we  Occidentals 
think  of  it,  perhaps  it  is.  A  Chinese  youth,  after  eating  for 
the  first  time  a  European  dinner,  wrote  of  his  experience: 
"Dishes  of  half-raw  meat  were  served,  from  which  pieces  were 
cut  with  sword-like  instruments  and  placed  before  the  guests. 
Finally  came  a  green  and  white  substance,  the  smell  of  which 
was  overpowering.     This,  I  was  informed,  was  a  compound 


PLACE  OF  EXECUTION,  CANTON. 


of  sour  milk,  baked  in  the  sun,  under  whose  influence  it 
remains  until  it  becomes  filled  with  insects;  yet  the  greener 
and  livelier  it  is,  the  greater  the  relish  with  which  it  is  eaten ! 
This  is  called  Che-sae/" 

The  object  of  most  gruesome  interest  to  me  in  Canton  was 
its  place  of  execution.  On  entering  this,  I  looked  about  me 
with  astonishment ;  for  almost  all  the  space  between  the  rough 
brick  walls  was  filled  with  coarse,  cheap  articles  of  pottery. 
Ah  Cum  explained,  however,  that  when  a  batch  of  heads 
are  to  be  cut  off,  the  jars  are  all  removed,  much  as  a  hotel 


98 


CHINA 


A   PAGODA. 


dining-room  is  cleared  for  dan- 
cing. The  condemned  prisoners 
are  always  brought  in  baskets 
to  this  place,  and  are  compelled 
to  kneel  down  with  their  hands 
tied  behind  their  backs.  Their 
queues  are  then  thrown  for- 
ward, and  they  are  beheaded 
at  a  single  stroke.  Traces  of 
blood  were  visible  on  the 
ground,  and  from  a  mass  of 
rubbish  close  at  hand  a  grin- 
ning Chinaman  pulled  out  sev- 
eral skulls  which  he  had  hidden 
there,  and  claimed  a  fee  for 
exhibiting  them.  I  was  pre- 
sented to  the  executioner,  and  asked  him  how  many  men  he 
had  himself  decapitated,  but  he  could  not  tell.  He  kept  no 
count,  he  said — some  days  six,  some  days  ten,  in  all  probably 
more  than  a  thousand.  As  he  was  resolutely  opposed  to  hav- 
ing his  picture  taken,  we  placed  his  two-edged  sword  against 
the  wall,  and  photographed  that.  When  I  was  told  that,  once 
a  week,  twenty  or  thirty  men  are  brought  into  this  filthy  court 
to  die  like  cattle 
in  a  slaughter- 
house, I  stood 
aghast,  but  when 
I  subsequently 
learned  that  this 
is  the  only  ex- 
ecution-place in 
a  great  province 
with  a  popula- 
tion   of    twenty 


DRAWING    WATER. 


CHINA 


99 


FEMALE   CULPRITS. 


millions,  the 
number  did  not 
seem  so  appall- 
ingly excessive. 
This  is,  however, 
merely  the  aver- 
age in  ordinary 
times.  After 
certain  insurrec- 
tions, such  as  the 
Taiping  rebel- 
lion, this  hid- 
eous square  has 
seemed  almost  a 

reservoir  of    human    blood.      The  venerable  missionary,  Dr. 

Williams,  states  that  he  saw  here  one  morning  at  least  two 

hundred  headless  trunks,   and  stacks  of  human  heads  piled 

six  feet  high.     Careful  estimates  place  the  number  executed 

here  during  fourteen  months,  at 

eighty-one    thousand, —  or  more 

than    thirteen    hundred     every 

week! 

I  doubt  if  many  criminals  be- 
headed here  feel  much  regret  at 

leaving  life,  so  horrible  has  been 

their  previous    condition    in  the 

Canton  prison.      We  visited  this 

institution,  but  to  obtain  a  pic- 
ture of  it  was  impossible.     Within 

an    ill-kept,   loathsome    area,   we 

saw  a  crowd  of  prisoners  wearing 

chains,  while  around  their  necks 

were    heavy    wooden    collars, 

which,  being  from  three  to  five  a  prisoner. 


lOO 


CHINA 


JUDGE    AND    PRISONERS. 


feet  square,  were  so  wide  that  the  poor  wretches  wearing 
them  could  never  possibly  feed  themselves,  but  must  depend 
on  others  for  their  nourishment.  How  they  lie  down  to  sleep 
with  them  on  I  do  not  know.     Yet  they  must  wear  such  collars 

for  weeks,  and 
even  months,  at 
a  time.  I  have 
no  sentimental 
sympathy  for 
criminals,  and 
thoroughly  be- 
lieve in  the  en- 
forcement of  just 
laws,  but  I  was 
shocked  at  the 
sight  of  these 
poor  creatures.  Whatever  may  have  been  their  guilt,  such 
treatment  is  a  degradation  of  humanity. 

Leaving  the  place  of  execution,  we  made  our  way  to  one 
of  the  criminal  courts  of  Canton.  It  was  in  session  when  we 
entered  it,  and  I  never  can  forget  the  sight  that  met  my  gaze. 
Before  the  judge  was  a  prisoner  on  his  knees,  pleading  for 
mercy  and  protesting  innocence.  Chains  were  around  his 
neck,  waist,  wrists,  and  ankles.  Beside  him  knelt  an  aged 
woman,  whose  gray  hair  swept  the  floor  as  she  rocked  back 
and  forth,  imploring  vengeance  on  her  son's  assassin.  At 
last  the  culprit  confessed  his  crime  of  murder,  and  was  led 
back  to  prison.  How  sincere  his  confession  was,  it  would  be 
hard  to  say;  for  if,  in  the  face  of  powerful  adverse  testimony, 
an  accused  man  still  asserts  his  innocence,  he  is  often  pun- 
ished in  the  court-room  till  he  does  confess.  Around  the  hall 
were  various  instruments  of  torture — bamboo  rods  to  flog  the 
naked  back;  hard  leather  straps  with  which  to  strike  the  pris- 
oner on  the  mouth,  thus  sometimes  breaking  the  teeth  and 


CHINA 


lOI 


even  the  jaw;  thumb-screws  and  cords  by  which  he  is  sus- 
pended by  his  thumbs  and  toes;  and  heavy  sticks  with  which 
to  beat  his  ankles.  I  did  not  happen  to  see  these  used, 
because  in  the  three  trials  I  witnessed  all  of  the  prisoners 
confessed.  But  they  are  used;  and  just  as  I  was  entering  the 
court,  I  met  a  criminal  being  led  back  to  prison,  so  weak  and 
crippled  by  his  punishment,  that  he  could  hardly  step  with- 
out assistance.  Curiously  enough,  after  the  torture  has  been 
administered,  the  culprit  is  required  to  fall  upon  his  knees 
and  thank  the  judge.  This  I  should  think  would  be  "  the 
most  unkindest  cut  of  all." 

It  seems  impossible  to  say  anything  in  defense  of  such  a 
system  as  this;  for  in  China  a  man  is  not  only  looked  upon  as 
guilty  till  he  is 
proved  innocent, 
but  is  kept  in 
loathsome  con- 
finement, and 
may  be  even  put 
upon  the  rack,  in 
spite  of  the  es- 
tablished fact 
that  torture  is 
never  a  test  of 
truth.  And  yet 
a  foreign  resident 
made,  as  an  apol- 
ogy, the  follow- 
ing statement: 
"You  must  re- 
member that  testimony  here  amounts  to  nothing,  and  that, 
by  paying  sixpence  apiece,  you  can  pack  the  court-room  with 
men  who  will  swear  that  black  is  white.  Hence,  where  a  man 
can  easily  bribe  false  witnesses  to  ruin  his  enemy,  the  Chinese 


A    CHINESE   COURT. 


I02 


CHINA 


law  provides  that  no  one  shall  under  any  circumstances  be 
put  to  death  unless  he  has  confessed  his  crime.  But  since  a 
prisoner  on  trial  for  his  life  will  usually  protest  his  innocence 
to  the  last,  the  court  attempts  by  torture  to  force  him  to 
confess." 

We  visited  finally  an  object  in  Canton  far  pleasanter  than 
its  scenes  of  punishment,  yet  equally  characteristic  of  the 
national  life.  It  is  the  place  where  natives  of  this  province 
take  the  first  step  in  the  only  path  which  in  China  leads  to 
political  and  social  rank.  It  is  the  scene  of  the  competitive 
examinations,  the  fame  of  which  has  filled  the  world. 


THE    EXAMINATION    GROUND,  CANTON. 


The  courtyard  where  the  contest  takes  place  is  by  no  means 
inviting.  It  is  an  area  of  sixteen  acres,  covered  with  nearly 
nine  thousand  rough  brick  sheds.  At  the  time  of  an  exam- 
ination each  of  these  is  occupied  by  a  candidate.  Before  he 
enters  it,  his  person  is  carefully  searched,  and  soldiers  and 
policemen  guard  all  passageways  to  prevent  communication. 
"Each  in  his  narrow  cell,"  these  applicants  for  office  then 
remain  for  three  consecutive  days  and  nights,  about  as  pleas- 
antly lodged,  I  should  imagine,  as  Jonah  was  for  the  same 
length  of  time;  for  these  dirty  dens  of  brick  are  only  four 
feet  long,  three  feet  wide,  and  possibly  six  feet  high.  One 
of  the  horse-sheds  in  the  rear  of  a   New  England  meeting- 


CHINA 


105 


A    STUDENT. 


house  would  be  a  far  more  comfort- 
able place  in  which  to  eat  and  sleep. 
Perhaps  they  are  meant,  however,  to 
emphasize  the  triumph  of  mind  over 
matter.  Their  only  furniture  consists 
of  two  small  planks,  one  for  a  seat, 
the  other  for  a  table.  Rest  is,  of 
course,  impossible  in  such  a  cage,  and 
candidates  have  sometimes  died  here 
from  physical  and  mental  strain.  All 
this  seems  inexcusably  cruel;  yet  the 
Chinese  government  may  have  good 
reasons  for  maintaining  this  severity. 
For  instance,  such  a  system,  if  intro- 
duced at  Washington,  would  rid  the  District  of  Columbia  of 
nine-tenths  of  its  oflfice-seekers  within  twenty-four  hours. 
While  some  of  these  students  persevere  in  their  attempts 
till  they  are  seventy  or  eighty  years  of  age,  others  are  quite 
young;  but  the  fact  of  youth  is  not  considered  discreditable, 
for  Confucius  said:  "A  youth  should  always  be  regarded  with 
respect.  How  do  we  know  that  his  future  may  not  be  su- 
perior to  our  present?"     At  all  events,  the  highest  place  is 

open  to  them, 
if  their  brains 
will  take  them 
there ;  for  every 
village  in  China 
has  its  school, 
and  ever}'^  free- 
born  citizen 
may  qualify  for 
this  struggle, 
the  governing 
principle    of 


f^Hprr 

TyL 

m 

W 

FISHING  ON  THE   RIVER. 


io6 


CHINA 


which  is  "Let  the  best  man  win  I  "     It  is  the  law  of  the  "sur- 
vival of  the  fittest"  exemplified  in  politics. 

In  all  the  provinces  of  China,  on  the  appointed  day,  thou- 
sands of  candidates  assemble,  eager  for  the  contest.  Subjects 
are  given  them  on  which  they  must  produce  a  poem  and  orig- 
inal  essays.      Their  work   is   then   examined   by  ofificials  ap- 


A   CHINESE   GENERAL   AND   HIS    ATTENDANTS. 


pointed  by  the  Government,  and  so  extremely  rigid  is  the 
test,  that  out  of  every  thousand  applicants  only  about  ten 
gain  the  first,  or  "District,"  degree.  There  are,  however, 
three  degrees  to  be  attained  by  Chinese  aspirants  for  fame. 
Those  who  come  out  as  victors  in  the  first  receive  no  office, 
but  are  at  least  exempt  from  corporal  punishment,  and  may 
attempt  the  examination  for  the  next  degree.  Even  the  few 
who  pass  the  second,  or  "Provincial,"  test  (about   one   in  a 


CHINA 


107 


hundred)  receive  no  government  appointment.  Yet  they 
are  distinguished  among  their  countrymen  by  wearing  a  gold 
button  in  their  hats,  and  by  a  sign  over  their  houses  signifying 
"Promoted  man." 

Those  who  succeed  in  standing  the  third,  or  "Imperial," 
test  at  Pekin, — severer  even  than  the  other  two, — have  reached 
the  apex  of  the  pyramid.  They 
are  now  mandarins,  and  have 
acquired  all  they  can  desire, — 
social  distinction,  office,  wealth, 
and  (what  is  sometimes  still 
more  highly  prized)  great  na- 
tional fame.  For  in  the  results 
of  this  examination  the  entire 
country  takes  the  greatest  in- 
terest. The  names  of  the  suc- 
cessful men  are  everywhere 
proclaimed  by  means  of  cour- 
iers, river-boats,  and  carrier- 
pigeons,  since  thousands  of 
people  in  the  empire  have  laid 
their  wagers  on  the  candidates, 
as  we  might  do  on  horses  at  the 
Derby.  Strange,  is  it  not,  to 
think  that  this  elaborate  Chi- 
nese system  was  practised  in 
the  land  of  the  Mongols  substantially  as  it  is  to-day,  at  a  time 
when  England  was  inhabited  by  painted  savages  ? 

Moreover,  the  honors  of  successful  candidates  in  China 
cannot  be  inherited.  Young  men,  if  they  would  be  ennobled, 
must  surpass  their  competitors  and  win  their  places  as  their 
fathers  did.  Even  the  youthful  son  of  Li  Hung  Chang,  whom 
General  Grant  considered,  next  to  Bismarck,  the  most  re- 
markable man  he  met  with  in  his  tour  around  the  world,  is 


LI   Hl'NG  CHANG. 


io8 


CHINA 


not  entitled,  because  of  his  father's  office,  to  any  special  rank. 
Hence,  China,  though  an  absolute  monarchy,  has  no  privi- 
leged class  whose  claims  rest  merely  on  the  accident  of  birth. 
Her  aristocracy  consists  of  those  who  have  repeatedly  proved 
themselves  intellectually  superior  to  their  rivals.  Among  no 
people  in  the  world,  therefore,  have  literary  men  received 
such  honors  as  in  China;  and  it  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  this 
vast  nation  has  worshiped  for  two  thousand  years,  not  a  great 


LI    HUNG   CHANG   AND    SUITE   ON   THEIR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD. 

warrior,  nor  even  a  prophet  claiming  inspiration  from  God,  but 
a  philosopher, — Confucius. 

I  have  often  thought  that  were  I  asked  to  compare  the 
Chinese  empire  of  to-day  with  some  material  object,  I  would 
select  for  such  comparison  the  Great  Wall  on  its  northern 
frontier.  This  mighty  work  has  hardly  been  surpassed  in  the 
whole  history  of  architecture,  not  even  by  the  builders  of  the 
Pyramids.  It  is  no  less  than  twenty-five  feet  high  and  forty 
feet   broad,    with   watch-towers   higher   still,    at    intervals    of 


CHINA 


109 


three  hundred  feet.  And  yet  it  has  a  length  of  nearly  fifteen 
hundred  miles,  a  distance  exceeding  that  from  Boston  to  St. 
Paul,  and  in  its  uninterrupted  march  spans  deep  ravines  and 
climbs  to  lofty  mountain  crests,  in  one  place  nearly  five  thou- 
sand feet  in  height.  Although  it  was  built  three  hundred  years 
before  the  birth  of  Christ,  it  still  exists,  and  during  fourteen 


THE   GREAT   WAl-l.   ol-    CHINA. 


centuries  sufficed  to  hold  in  check  the  savage  tribes  of  Tartars 
from  the  north.  It  has  been  calculated  that  if  the  Great  Wall 
were  constructed  at  the  present  time,  and  .with  Caucasian 
labor,  its  cost  would  pay  for  all  the  railroads  in  the  United 
States.  One  hundred  years  ago  an  English  engineer  reckoned 
that  its  masonry  represented  more  than  all  the  dwellings  of 
England    and    Scotland   put   together,   and,   finally,   that    its 


no  CHINA 

material  would  construct  a  stone  wall  six  feet  high  and  two 

feet  thick  around  the  entire  globe. 

In  many  respects  this  great  rampart  is  typical  of  China. 

Both  have  a  vast  antiquity,  both  have  an  enormous  extent, 

and  both  have 
had  their  pe- 
riods of  glory, 
—  China  her 
age  of  prog- 
ress and  in- 
vention, and 
this  old  wall  a 
time  when  it 
was  kept  in 
perfect  order, 
when  warri- 
ors stood  at 
every  tower, 
and  when   it 

A   GATEWAY   IN  THE  GREAT  WALL.  StrCtcllcd       f  O  r 

fifteen  hundred  miles — an  insurmountable  barrier  to  invasion. 
But  just  as  this  leviathan  of  masonry  has  outlived  its  useful- 
ness, and  is  at  present  crumbling  to  decay,  so  the  huge  Chi- 
nese empire  itself  now  seems  decrepit  and  wholly  alien  to  the 
nineteenth  century.  Her  roads,  once  finely  kept,  are  now 
disgraceful ;  her  streets  are  an  abomination  to  the  senses ;  her 
rivers  and  canals  are  left  to  choke  themselves  through  want 
of  dredging;  and  even  her  temples  show  few  signs  of  care. 
Stagnation  and  neglect  are  steadily  at  work  on  her  colossal 
frame,  as  weeds  and  plants  disintegrate  this  mouldering  wall. 
Will  this  old  empire  ever  be  aroused  to  new  activity,  and  can 
fresh  life-blood  be  infused  into  her  shrunken  veins  to  animate 
her  inert  frame?  There  is,  I  think,  a  possibility  that,  in  the 
coming  century,  the  new,  progressive  party  here  will  overcome 


CHINA 


1 1 1 


the  dull  conservatism  of  the  nation,  connect  her  vast  interior 
with  the  sea,  utilize  her  mineral  wealth,  develop  her  immense 
resources,  and  make  her  one  of  the  great  powers  of  the  world. 
Napoleon  once  warned  England  that  if  the  Chinese  should 
learn  too  well  from  her  the  art  of  war,  and  then  acquire  the 
thirst  for  conquest  which  has  characterized  other  nations,  the 
result  might  be  appalling  to  the  whole  of  Europe.  For  think 
what  inexhaustible  armies  they  could  raise,  and  what  great 
fleets  they  could  build  and  launch  upon  their  mighty  rivers! 
But  this  is  a  problem  of  the  future,  about  which  no  man  can 
predict  with  certainty. 

Many  have  asked  me  if  I  am  glad  that  I  went  to  China, 
and  I  have  always  answered  that,  as  a  unique  and  useful 
study  of  humanity,  I  think  it  one  of  the  most  valuable  expe- 
riences of  my  life.  Still  I  am  bound  to  say,  that  when  I  stood 
upon  the  deck  of  an  outgoing  steamer,  and  felt  it  move  be- 
neath my  feet  responsive  to  the  engine's  stroke,  I  drew  a 
breath  of  pleasure   and   relief.      For  I  was  assured  that  the 


■CJi^  J^fA^gSMI  •> 


A    LEVIATHAN    01-     MASONRY. 


I  12 


CHINA 


swarming  millions  of  the  Chinese  empire  were  being  left 
behind  me,  and  that  my  face  was  turned  toward  that  historic 
land  where,  lighted  by  the  Southern  Cross,  I  was  to  visit 
Hindu  shrines  and  Mogul  palaces,  and  gaze  on  the  Himalayas 
and  the  Taj  Mahal. 


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